南宁荷韵翻译公司

                    作者：苏静  单位：广西农业职业技术大学人文与艺术学院

在夜市上见到这些茶饼，我突然有了主意，那就给同事们带些普洱茶回去，这些仿匾额和仿钱币的茶饼都可以作为礼品。 

When I saw these tea cakes at the night market, I suddenly had an idea, so I should bring some Pu'er tea back to my colleagues, and these imitation plaques and imitation coins can be used as gifts.

我把自己的想法与妻子说了，她也觉得可以。 I spoke to my wife about my idea and she thought it was okay.

但是我当时对普洱茶不甚了解，不过我知道，很多东西是可以临时学习的。 But I didn't know much about pu-erh tea at the time, but I know that a lot can be learned on the fly.

最好学习的方法，对于我来说莫过于地摊了。 There is no better way to learn, for me, than the ground floor.

地摊虽然鱼龙混杂，但是跟他们学习，很快就能掌握我需要的知识。 Groundlings are a mixed bag, but learning from them quickly gave me the knowledge I needed.

我需要了解的是普洱茶的品种、优劣、价格，而地摊主就可以提供这些，询问他们就知道了品种和价格，讨价还价间就能知道质量。 What I need to know is the varieties, merits, and prices of Puerh tea, and the stallholders can provide these. Ask them and you'll know the varieties and prices, and you'll know the quality between bargains.

关上这个夜市，有很多摆地摊卖普洱茶的。 Off this night market, there are a lot of stalls selling pu-erh tea.

我没有其他事，就一个地摊一个地摊地问过去。 I had nothing else to do, so I asked my way through one floor stall at a time.

他们的价格、货源、型号、品质、利润空间、销售方式、服务态度等都不同，但是茶叶的质量、价格体系、利润范围、进货渠道等都差不多。 Their prices, sources, models, quality, profit margins, sales methods, and service attitudes are all different, but the quality of the tea, the price system, the range of profits, and the channels of purchase are similar.

看得多了，自然认识的产品也多了，真实的价格也大概知道，价钱也好把握。 See more, naturally recognize the product is also more, the real price is also probably know, the price is also good to grasp.

一个晚上，我走在这条几百米长的夜市街上，看了十多个摆普洱茶的地摊，看了二十多种产品。 One night, I walked down this several hundred meter long night market street and looked at more than a dozen stalls displaying Pu'er tea and saw more than twenty kinds of products.

我不敢贪便宜，只是买了几块火柴盒大小的普洱茶砖，拿来自己在宾馆里喝，也好了解一下普洱茶的茶叶品质。 I didn't dare to be cheap, I just bought a few matchbox-sized Puerh tea bricks and used them to drink by myself in the hotel, so that I could understand the quality of Puerh tea leaves.

第二天，我们白天去呈贡办事，到晚上才回到昆明。 The next day, we went to Chenggong to run errands during the day and didn't get back to Kunming until the evening.

我与妻子吃过饭之后，又去逛街。 My wife and I had dinner and then went shopping.

在昆明，街头巷尾到处都是茶叶店，往往茶叶和烟草在一起卖。 In Kunming, the streets and alleys are full of tea stores, often selling tea and tobacco together.

我想做到货比三家，找到物美价廉的茶叶，就在宾馆周边的街巷找茶叶店。 I wanted to do some comparison shopping and find good quality tea at a good price, so I looked for tea stores in the streets around the hotel.

我走访了十多家茶叶店，才知道昆明的茶叶店多数不是云南人经营的，主要由江西人在经营，他们才是普洱茶的大茶商。 I visited more than ten tea stores and realized that most of the tea stores in Kunming are not run by Yunnanese, but mainly by Jiangxi people, who are the big tea merchants of Pu'er tea.

我从个别云南人开的茶叶店了解到，近20年来，江西人从普洱茶的种植、加工到销售，每个环节都在慢慢地蚕食云南人的生存空间。 I learned from individual Yunnan people open tea store, nearly 20 years, Jiangxi people from the planting, processing to sales of Pu'er tea, each link is slowly eating into the living space of the Yunnan people.

现在的普洱茶销售有一半控制在江西人手里，他们不仅控制了云南境内的一半市场，全国普洱茶市场也被他们全部控制。 Now half of the Pu'er tea sales are controlled in the hands of Jiangxi people, they not only control half of the market in Yunnan, the national Pu'er tea market is also controlled by all of them.

江西人说，云南人做生意不厉害，他们唯一可以做好的生意就是普洱茶，那是他们的老本行，经营了几百年，但现在还是做得不好。 The Jiangxi people say that the Yunnan people are not good at business, and the only business they can do well is Pu'er tea, which is their old business and has been in business for hundreds of years, but they are still not doing well.

我最关注的是七子饼的价格，在十多家茶叶店了解到：极品的七子饼价格都差不多，中等的七子饼价格有轻微的浮动，差的七子饼价格各异，比较悬殊。 I am most concerned about the price of the seven son cake, in more than ten tea stores to understand: the price of the very best seven son cake are about the same, the price of the medium seven son cake has a slight fluctuation, the price of the poor seven son cake varies, more disparate.

店家会说出各种理由，比如老树、老班章等。 Stores will give all sorts of reasons, such as old trees, old banshees, etc.

茶叶店的茶饼也不少，那种仿匾额和仿古钱币的茶饼倒是没有。 Tea stores also have a lot of tea cakes, the kind of imitation plaques and imitation ancient coins of tea cakes are not.

只有极少数的两三家有仿匾额的茶饼，我就选择了“马到成功”“家和万事兴”“福富临门”等六块两尺长一尺五寸高的茶匾。 Only a very small number of two or three homes have imitation plaque tea cakes, I chose "Horse to success", "family and all things are prosperous", "Fu Fu Lin Men" and so on six pieces of two-foot-long, one-foot-five-inch-high tea plaques.

还在地摊上买了20多个不同型号的仿古钱币的茶饼，打包随身携带。 I also bought more than 20 different models of tea cakes imitating antique coins at a stall and packed them to take with me.

我又在宾馆门口的茶叶店选择了10个上等的七子饼，30个中等的七子饼，50个一般的七子饼，110个普通七子饼，这些全部是生普。 I chose another 10 top quality sevens, 30 medium sevens, 50 average sevens, and 110 regular sevens from the tea store in front of the hotel, all of which were raw pu.

我把这些七子饼全部打包，托运回长沙，并直接送到家。 I packaged up all of these seviches, shipped them back to Changsha, and delivered them directly to my home.

我又在地摊上买了两桶七子饼，全部是熟茶，由妻子携带。 I bought two more buckets of Shichizi Cake at a stall, all ripe tea, carried by my wife.

几天之后，我们坐火车回到长沙。 A few days later, we took the train back to Changsha.

我没有先回家，而是带着东西和妻子直接去我办公室。 Instead of going home first, I took my stuff and my wife straight to my office.

在办公室喝了一杯水，就把六块茶匾分别赠送给单位里的领导，根据他们各自的爱好和寓意选择图案。 After a cup of water in the office, the six tea plaques were presented to each of the leaders in the unit, choosing patterns based on their respective preferences and symbolism.

再将仿古钱币的茶饼赠送给办公室的所有同事。 Then the tea cakes imitating antique coins are given to all the colleagues in the office.

到最后，我只剩下两个最小的仿古钱币的茶饼。 By the end of the day, I was down to two of the smallest imitation antique coin tea cakes.

我还特意从妻子携带的两桶七子饼里拿出两个七子饼，放在办公室，一个是我以后自己喝，一个是留给办公室的所有同事煮茶用。 I also purposely took out two seven-son cakes from the two buckets of seven-son cakes carried by my wife and put them in the office, one for me to drink myself later and the other to be reserved for all the colleagues in the office to make tea.

我到长沙的第二天，在昆明购买的两百个七子饼也由物流托运到长沙。 The day after I arrived in Changsha, two hundred Nanako cakes purchased in Kunming were also shipped to Changsha by logistics.

我把这些七子饼分类用不同的茶桶装好，写上购买时间和等级，把这些茶叶桶全部用新纸箱打包，放在家里的衣柜顶上。 I sorted these sevens into different tea buckets, wrote down the time of purchase and the grade, packed all of these tea buckets in new cardboard boxes, and placed them on top of a closet in my home.

这些七子饼的存放位置只有我和妻子知道，其他人根本不知道那些纸箱装的是茶叶，而且是普洱茶。 Only my wife and I knew where these septuplets were stored, and no one else had any idea that those cardboard boxes contained tea, and Puerh tea at that.

自从我从昆明回来之后，很多朋友都在传说我送同事普洱茶的故事。 Since my return from Kunming, many of my friends have been regaling me with tales of giving my coworkers Pu'er tea.

也因为这件事，找我喝茶的人越来越多。 And because of this, more and more people are coming to me for tea.

有的是带了自己购买的普洱茶来，问我他购买的茶叶的品质和价格；有些人是来找我要茶或者想喝我购买的好茶。 Some of them brought their own purchased Puerh tea and asked me about the quality and price of the tea he purchased; some of them came to ask me for tea or wanted to drink the good tea I purchased.

我放在办公室的那两桶七子饼，不到两个月时间，就喝完了，大家渐渐平静下来。 The two kegs of seviche I kept in my office were finished in less than two months, and everyone gradually calmed down.

我开始在家里品普洱茶，喝的就是昆明买来的那批七子饼。 I started sipping puerh tea at home, drinking the same batch of sevens that I bought in Kunming.

有了在昆明购买七子饼的经历，在我以后寻茶的日子里，我不仅关注普洱茶，对七子饼也非常关注，特别是我一直在不停地学习七子饼的知识，对七子饼的了解也渐渐丰富起来。 With the experience of purchasing the seven seed cakes in Kunming, in my future tea hunting days, I not only pay attention to Puerh tea, but also pay great attention to the seven seed cakes, especially I have been constantly learning the knowledge of the seven seed cakes, and my understanding of the seven seed cakes is gradually enriched.

同事、朋友之间有喝茶的，他们知道我在昆明购买过普洱茶，那些没有去过昆明的人都想听听我对普洱茶的看法和评价，特别是那种亲身感受。 There are tea drinkers among my coworkers and friends who know that I have purchased Puerh tea in Kunming, and those who have never been to Kunming would like to hear my views and comments on Puerh tea, especially that first-hand experience.

我也因此在长沙结识了无数的茶友，他们有了好茶，就叫我去喝茶。 I have also made countless tea friends in Changsha as a result, and when they have good tea, they call me for tea.

这些人中，三种人最多，一是种茶的人，要我评判他的茶叶的好坏；一是开茶馆的，要我评价他们购进的极品茶；三是真正的爱茶人和茶叶收藏者，需要了解他们收藏的茶叶的好坏。 Among these people, three kinds of people are the most numerous: one is a tea grower who wants me to judge the goodness of his tea; one is a tea house owner who wants me to evaluate the very best tea they have purchased; and the third is a true tea lover and tea collector who needs to know the goodness of the tea in their collection.

几年下来，他们喊我喝茶，喝的茶最多的是普洱茶，因此我也在实战中慢慢积累了一些经验。 A few years down the line, they shouted at me to drink tea, and the most tea I drank was Pu-erh tea, so I slowly gained some experience in the real world.

还有一点，我不太喜欢卖弄自己的知识和学问，喜欢做忠实的听众，每个喊我去喝茶的人，他们都会谈谈自己的茶叶，介绍它的优点和寻找这些茶叶的艰辛过程，我也就慢慢地了解了茶叶的寻访知识和访茶人的辛苦。 One more thing, I don't like to show off my knowledge and learning too much, I like to be a faithful listener. Every person who called me to have tea, they would talk about their tea, introduce its advantages and the arduous process of searching for these teas, and I slowly learned about the knowledge of searching for tea and the painstaking work of the tea-visiting people.

2016年元旦，新的一年开始。 New Year's Day 2016, the start of a new year.

我准备对2015年的寻茶和品茶经历做一点总结，湖南金凤小树种茶柳叶眉的种植者刘叶蔓给我发微信，约我参加她的2016年新年茶会。 I was about to do a little recap of my tea hunting and tasting experience in 2015 when Liu Yeman, a grower of Hunan Jinfeng Small Tree Tea Willow Eyebrows, sent me a WeChat about attending her 2016 New Year's Tea Party.

我正好也想放松一下，就答应了她。 I happened to want to relax too, so I said yes to her.

几天之后的一个周末，我如约来到她的工作室。 A few days later on a weekend, I came to her studio as promised.

我们一共六七个人，其中有她的两位小姐妹兼同事，还有两位老乡，其中有两位是茶艺师。 There were six or seven of us, including two of her youngest sisters and coworkers, and two old-timers, two of whom were tea artists.

真正的品茶活动开始，刘叶蔓拿出她2015年最好的柳叶眉红茶和绿茶，让我们来给她品鉴，他们每个人对茶叶的评价都很准确、细致，我自感惭愧。 The real tea tasting started, Liu Yeman took out her best 2015 Willow Eyebrow black and green teas and asked us to come and taste them for her, and each of them was so accurate and detailed in their evaluations of the teas that I felt ashamed of myself.

我与刘叶蔓认识了几年时间，从她开始做茶，一直到现在，也可以说是看着她的柳叶眉做起来的。 I've known Liu Yeman for a few years now, since she started making tea, and I can say that I've watched her Willow Eyebrows make it.

她的柳叶眉确实是一年比一年好。 Her willowy eyebrows do get better every year.

刘叶蔓觉得兴趣来了，就拿出别人送给她的几个七子饼，请我们品鉴。 Feeling interested, Liu Yeman took out a couple of seviches given to her by others and asked us to taste them.

我一看这些七子饼都已经不完整了，虽然还用绵纸包裹，外面用薄膜袋套着，也无法看到棉纸上的品牌、厂家和生产年月。 I took a look at these sevruga cakes are no longer intact, although they are still wrapped in cotton paper and covered with a film bag on the outside, and it is impossible to see the brand, manufacturer and year of production on the cotton paper.

她把每个茶叶袋都拿给身边的姐妹们闻，要大家给点评价。 She held each tea bag out to her sisters around her to smell and ask for comments.

我在昆明买茶叶的时候，那些茶叶店的老板都会拿茶给顾客闻气味。 When I was buying tea in Kunming, the owners of those tea stores would take the tea and give it to the customers to smell the odor.

这就是真正的评茶，并且是盲评，看不到实物，纯粹靠气味来区分。 This is the real evaluation of tea, and blind evaluation, can not see the physical, purely by smell to distinguish.

他们一轮一轮地转，最后转到我面前，我也只好闻闻。 They went round and round and finally came to me and I had to smell it.

但是我闻到这普洱茶的气味，就来精神头了。 But I smelled this pu-erh tea and came to my senses.

刘叶蔓点点头，说是一个做茶叶的同行送给她的。 Liu Ye Man nodded and said it was given to her by a fellow tea maker.

我接着闻了第二个七子饼。 I proceeded to sniff the second seviche.

刘叶蔓说是一个茶叶收藏者送的，已经追了她两三年了。 Liu Ye Man said it was a tea collector sent, has been chasing her for two or three years.

刘叶蔓说是一个“蓝颜知己”在云南一个古茶山专门为她定做的七子饼。 Liu Ye Man said it was a "blue face confidant" in Yunnan, an ancient tea mountain specially customized for her seven cakes.

大家见我这么一“闻”，就知道后面那么多的事情，极其惊讶。 People were extremely surprised to see that I knew so much about what was going on behind the scenes just by "smelling" it.

刘叶蔓问我：您是靠什么来区别这些茶叶的价格和价值的？ Liu Yeh-Man asked me: What do you rely on to distinguish the price and value of these teas?

几年前，我到云南寻访普洱茶六大产区，在易武茶区停留的时候，常有人跟我提起一种茶，叫曼松贡茶。 A few years ago, I traveled to Yunnan in search of the six production areas of Puerh Tea, and when I stopped at the Yiwu Tea District, I was often told about a type of tea called Mansong Gongcha.

在勐腊县期间，也有很多人跟我介绍过，曼松贡茶历史悠久，在北京故宫还有一块清代光绪年间的金瓜曼松茶，与之同时储存的其他茶叶都已腐烂，唯独它还能喝。 During the Mengla County, there are many people introduced to me, Mansong Gong tea has a long history, in the Forbidden City in Beijing, there is a piece of the Qing Dynasty Guangxu period of the Golden Melon Mansong tea, with which at the same time the storage of the other tea has been decayed, the only thing that it can still drink.

这让我非常震撼。 It blew me away.

因为我此行的时间非常紧迫，我从勐腊县去西北部山区的象明乡，不知路途有多遥远，只知道它是勐腊县唯一的彝族乡。 Because I was on a very tight schedule for this trip, I traveled from Mengla County to Xiangming Township in the northwestern mountains, not knowing how far the road was, only that it was the only Yi township in Mengla County.

象明是取野象山、孔明山中各一字而成。 Xiangming is made by taking one character from each of Wild Elephant Mountain and Kongming Mountain.

最早是倚邦土司领地，为景洪车里管辖。 It was first a territory of Yibang Tusi, which was under the jurisdiction of Jinghong Che.

象明乡是普洱茶产地之一，易武茶区有攸乐、革登、倚邦、莽枝、蛮专、慢撒六大古茶山。 Xiangming Township is one of the Pu'er tea production area, Yiwu tea area has six ancient tea mountains, namely, Youle, Gedeng, Yibang, Mangzhi, Barbarians specializing in and slow spreading.

等我到象明乡，打听到去曼庄的山路十分崎岖，需要步行几十里，又没有懂彝族语言的曼庄朋友带路。 When I arrived at Xiangming Township, I found out that the mountain road to Manzhuang was very rugged and I needed to walk for dozens of miles, and there was no Manzhuang friend who knew the Yi language to show me the way.

听人这样说，我就无法进山，也找不到曼松贡茶的古茶树。 When I hear people say this, I can't go into the mountains and find the ancient tea trees of Manson Tribute Tea.

回到长沙后，我心里极其懊悔，总责怪自己没有任性一回，去曼松碰碰运气。 After returning to Changsha, I was extremely remorseful, always blaming myself for not being capricious and going to Manson to try my luck.

2014年，中央电视台“发现之旅”《纪录东方》栏目做了一期《尚茶之旅之探秘曼松贡茶》，探秘者为电视剧《茶颂》女主人公南波娅的饰演者王力可，她走进曼松贡茶的古茶园，参观了213棵古茶树。 In 2014, CCTV "Journey of Discovery" "Record East" program did a "Tea Journey of the mystery of the Manson Tribute Tea", the explorer for the TV series "Ode to Tea" heroine Namboa's actor Wang Likuo, she went into the Manson Tribute Tea's ancient tea plantation, visited the 213 ancient tea trees.

我才知晓，王子山的曼松贡茶只有327棵古茶树，树龄达百年的只有70多棵。 I just learned that there are only 327 ancient tea trees in the Manson Tribute Tea of Prince Mountain, and only 70 trees that are up to 100 years old.

我查阅了一些史料才知道，曼松贡茶最早出现在明代成化年间。 I consulted some historical information to know that the Manson Tribute Tea first appeared in the Ming Dynasty during the Chenghua period.

地方官员为了进京上贡，选遍了六大茶山各寨的茶叶，最后发现曼松茶色香味俱全，开水冲泡后站立不倒。 Local officials in order to the Beijing tribute, selected all six tea mountain cottage tea, and finally found that the Man Song tea color and flavor, standing after boiling water does not fall.

就用驮马送了一批茶叶到京城，宪宗皇帝品尝后赞不绝口，当即确定为贡茶。 Sent a batch of tea to the capital with a pack horse, Emperor Xianzong tasted and praised, immediately identified as tribute tea.

2016年5月初，天气还比较寒冷。 In early May 2016, the weather was still relatively cold.

春茶遭到了严重的寒潮和雪灾，大家都在犹豫和等待。 Spring tea was hit by a severe cold snap and snowstorm, and everyone was hesitant and waiting.

我接到一个朋友的电话，他说在云南生产曼松贡茶的李伟先生将于5月7日来长沙，举办一个湖南首届高端茶文化交流茗品会，邀请我同去。 I received a call from a friend who said that Mr. Li Wei, who produces Manson Tribute Tea in Yunnan, will come to Changsha on May 7 to hold the first high-end tea culture exchange tasting party in Hunan and invited me to go with him.

我盘算了自己的时间和工作安排，答应了他。 I took stock of my time and work schedule and promised him.

在我内心深处，不完全是去喝曼松贡茶，而是去完成几年前未能成形的实地考察，也从生产者那里了解真正的曼松贡茶。 In my heart, it's not exactly about going to drink Manson Tribute Tea, but rather to complete a field trip that failed to take shape a few years ago, and also to learn about the real Manson Tribute Tea from the producers.

我到了会场，发现来的人还不多，茶艺师就给我泡曼松贡茶。 When I arrived at the venue, I realized that not many people had come, so the tea master made me Manson Tribute Tea.

我初看茶汤颜色不深，透亮有光泽，就随意地品尝，也没有特别在意。 At first glance, I saw that the color of the tea broth was not dark, translucent and shiny, so I tasted it casually and didn't pay any special attention to it.

我发现初入口时无甚感觉，三杯入口之后，口里慢慢有暗香涌动的苗头。 I found that I had no sensation at the beginning of the mouth, but after three cups, the mouth slowly had the beginnings of a dark aroma.

它不像其他茶那么浓烈，也没有那么苦涩，比较适中。 It is not as strong as other teas and not as bitter, more moderate.

它的滋味来得细腻、来得缓慢。 Its flavors come delicately and slowly.

喝了几杯后，我发现它的一个最大的特点是甜润，口里和喉头都很甜，像喝蜂蜜水。 After a few cups, I realized that one of its best features is its sweetness and moistness, sweet in the mouth and throat, like drinking honey water.

它的茶气很足又暖，喝着喝着身体就发热了。 Its tea is so full and warm that your body heats up as you drink it.

李伟来后，与我们聊起他的创业历程。 Li Wei came and talked to us about his entrepreneurial journey.

2007年，他从销售转行，毅然承担起曼松贡茶的发展使命，收购了两万亩林权，作为茶叶原料的基地。 In 2007, he changed his career from sales and resolutely undertook the development mission of Manson Tribute Tea, acquiring 20,000 mu of forest rights as a base for tea raw materials.

他在曼松进行古茶树的保护和贡茶园的恢复工作，在万亩曼松茶园里清理出327棵古茶树。 He carried out the protection of ancient tea trees and the restoration of Gongcha gardens in Manson, clearing out 327 ancient tea trees in 10,000 acres of Manson tea gardens.

他采用古法稀植的方法，在曼松茶山进行茶树的有性繁殖。 He uses the ancient method of thinning and sexual reproduction of tea trees in Manson Tea Hill.

茶园里不许挖蜂打猎、砍伐树木，严格保护生态环境，取名腊罗吉地（祖先生活之地）。 The tea plantations are not allowed to dig and hunt for bees or cut down trees, and the ecosystem is strictly protected, taking the name of Lalokidi (the place where our ancestors lived).

他的曼松贡茶产品于2014年面世，有饼茶、沱茶、金瓜茶、龙珠茶等不同形式，受到茶友的喜爱与追捧。 His Manson Tribute Tea products were launched in 2014, and are available in different forms such as cake tea, tuo tea, golden gourd tea and dragon pearl tea, which are loved and sought after by tea lovers.

曼松贡茶327的原料选自327棵古茶树的茶叶，单株年产量仅0.6公斤，极其稀缺，成为资深茶客收藏的至宝，可谓一泡难求。 The raw materials of Manson Tribute Tea 327 are selected from the tea leaves of 327 ancient tea trees, the annual production of a single plant is only 0.6 kilograms, which is extremely rare and has become the most precious treasure for the collection of senior tea drinkers, and it can be said that it is hard to find a single bubble.

我去湖南首届高端茶文化交流茗品会，品味到了曼松贡茶，见到了曼松贡茶的生产者，也算了却心中一桩愿望。 I went to the first high-end tea culture exchange tea tasting in Hunan, tasted the Manson Tribute Tea, met the producer of Manson Tribute Tea, but also forget a wish.

2013年7月24日，贵州美食科技文化研究中心主任吴茂钊先生给我打来电话，告诉我在黔西北的黔菜考察活动的具体时间已经确定了，考察团的所有成员于29日赶到贵阳，30日早晨从贵阳出发去毕节考察黔西北的饮食文化和美食资源。 On July 24th, 2013, Mr. Wu Maozhao, Director of Guizhou Gourmet Science and Technology and Culture Research Center, called me and told me that the exact time of the Guizhou Cuisine Study Tour in Northwest Guizhou has been determined, and all the members of the tour group rushed to Guiyang on the 29th, and set off from Guiyang in the morning of the 30th to inspect the culinary culture and gastronomic resources of Northwest Guizhou in Bijie.

我接到这个通知，心里就做了一个安排。 I received this notice and made an arrangement in my mind.

西南地区是茶叶的主产地，四川、重庆、云南我都去过，对它们的茶园和茶叶有一定的考察和调研，唯独没有去过贵州，心想要趁这次机会对贵州的茶叶有所了解。 Southwest is the main origin of tea, Sichuan, Chongqing, Yunnan I have been to their tea gardens and tea has a certain amount of investigation and research, the only thing I have not been to Guizhou, I want to take advantage of this opportunity to have an understanding of the tea in Guizhou.

我做了一些功课和资料准备，对我们即将行走的毕节地区的黔西县、大方县、七星关区、赫章县、威宁县等地进行了了解，知道毕节的主要茶产地在威宁，七星关区、黔西县也有零星分布。 I did some homework and data preparation, and learned about Qianxi County, Dafang County, Qixingguan District, Hezhang County, and Weining County in the Bijie area where we will be walking, and I know that the main tea-producing area in Bijie is in Weining, and there are also sporadic distributions in Qixingguan District and Qianxi County.

7月25日，我购买好从长沙去贵阳的火车票，打电话告诉吴茂钊先生我坐的车次和29日抵达贵阳的具体时间，并向他提出了一个请求，希望在毕节这次饮食资源考察的过程中，除了调查毕节的本土食材、特产、地方名菜、地方名小吃、调味品之外，还能对毕节的酒水、茶叶进行深入的调研，希望能够在这次调研中安排一些相关的参观点和产品。 On July 25th, I purchased a train ticket from Changsha to Guiyang, called Mr. Wu Maozhao to tell him the number of the train I was taking and the exact time of my arrival in Guiyang on the 29th, and put forward a request to him to carry out an in-depth research on Bijie's alcoholic beverages and teas in addition to investigating Bijie's local ingredients, specialties, famous local dishes, famous local snacks, and condiments during this culinary resources investigation in Bijie. We hope that we can arrange some related visiting points and products in this research.

吴茂钊先生满口答应，并给我做出相应的安排。 Mr. Wu Maozhao was full of promises and made arrangements for me accordingly.

28日晚，我到达贵阳火车站，赶到酒店与吴茂钊先生等人聚头。 On the evening of the 28th, I arrived at the Guiyang Railway Station and rushed to the hotel to meet with Mr. Wu Maozhao and others.

吴茂钊先生就告诉我，毕节产茶的地方多，这次调研的几个县（区）产茶的少，只有威宁县、黔西县、七星关区有茶叶，黔西县还有一种茶食。 Mr. Wu Maozhao told me that there are many places producing tea in Bijie, and the few counties (districts) producing tea in this research are less, only Weining County, Qianxi County and Qixingguan District have tea, and Qianxi County also has a kind of tea food.

30日上午十点整，我们驱车前往黔西县。 On the 30th, we drove to Qianxi County at 10:00 am sharp.

黔西县位于乌江中游鸭池河北岸，为毕节市东大门。 Qianxi County is located on the north bank of Yuchi River in the middle reaches of Wujiang River, which is the east gate of Bijie City.

黔西县山高云雾笼罩、漫射光多，有利于茶树生长和茶叶内含物的积累，古茶树和野生茶树资源丰富，分布在新仁乡化竹、中坪镇黄泥屯、飞蛾山等地，其种植、加工、消费茶叶的历史有上千年。 Qianxi County, high mountains covered with clouds and mist, diffuse light, conducive to the growth of tea trees and the accumulation of tea inclusions, ancient tea trees and wild tea tree resources are abundant, distributed in Xinren Township, Huazhu, Zhongping Township, Huangnitun, Moth Mountain, etc., and the history of its planting, processing, and consumption of tea for thousands of years.

水西古茶、化竹茶出产在雨朵镇龙场，即雨朵龙场茶，为清代贡茶。 ShuiXi ancient tea, HwaZhu tea produced in the town of YuDuo dragon field, namely YuDuo dragon field tea, for the Qing Dynasty tribute tea.

金雀茶也是贡茶，还现存有古茶树。 Goldfinch tea is also a tribute tea, and there are also existing ancient tea trees.

现在以绿茶为主，有龙场茶、花都雀舌、花都松针、花都毛尖、谷里毛尖、黔龙茉莉花茶、黔龙玫瑰茶、谷逸茶、水西古茶等。 Nowadays, green tea is the mainstay, including Longchang Tea, Huadu Bird's Tongue, Huadu Pine Needle, Huadu Maojian, Guli Maojian, Qianlong Jasmine Tea, Qianlong Rose Tea, Guyi Tea, Shuixi Ancient Tea and so on.

以谷里茶区为核心的万亩茶园，均在海拔1300米以上，群山环抱，林木苍翠，云雾缭绕，气候温和湿润，土质肥沃，非常适合茶叶种植。 Valley Tea District as the core of the 10,000 acres of tea plantations, are at an altitude of 1300 meters above sea level, surrounded by mountains, verdant forests, cloudy, mild and humid climate, fertile soil, very suitable for tea planting.

黔西县副县长亲自来接待我们，给我们介绍黔西县的物产和美食，还特意给我们提供了黔西县最好的茶叶——谷里毛尖。 The vice mayor of Qianxi County personally came to receive us, introduced us to the products and food of Qianxi County, and specially provided us with the best tea of Qianxi County - Guli Mao Jian.

我仔细观察了那茶叶的外形，紧细卷曲，叶尖多毫。 I scrutinized the shape of that tea, tight and thin and curly, with many hairs at the tips of the leaves.

服务员用开水冲泡后，汤色碧绿明亮，叶底鲜活。 After the waiter brewed it with boiling water, the soup color was turquoise and bright, and the leaf bottom was fresh.

我喝了一口，醇和爽口，它特有的板栗香高远持久，我非常喜欢。 I took a sip, it was mellow and refreshing, its characteristic chestnut aroma was high and persistent, I liked it very much.

县长向我介绍，谷里在1977年就开辟为茶场了，叫谷里区红砖茶场，以生产、加工、销售茶叶为一体。 The governor introduced to me that Guri was opened as a tea farm in 1977, called Guri District Red Brick Tea Farm, to produce, process and sell tea as a whole.

1980年，谷里种植了四千亩茶叶，号称万亩茶场，其年产茶三十多万斤，成为毕节地区产茶的大户，黔西县也成为毕节产茶大县之一。 In 1980, Guli planted four thousand acres of tea, known as ten thousand acres of tea farms, its annual output of more than three hundred thousand pounds of tea, becoming a large tea production in Bijie, Qianxi County has become one of the major tea-producing counties in Bijie.

8月1日，吃过中饭后，我们从赫章县前往贵州屋脊威宁县。 On August 1, after lunch, we traveled from Hezhang County to Weining County, the roof of Guizhou.

威宁苗族彝族回族自治县位于贵州西北部，北、西、南三面与云南毗连，为贵州的西大门。 Weining Miao and Yi Hui Autonomous County is located in the northwestern part of Guizhou, adjoining Yunnan in the north, west and south, and is the western gate of Guizhou.

威宁的茶叶种植历史可追溯至明朝末期，现有茶园近七万亩，总产量350吨。 Weining's tea planting history can be traced back to the end of the Ming Dynasty, the existing tea plantations nearly 70,000 acres, with a total output of 350 tons.

主要分布在云贵乡马街村、群丰村、新民村、云贵村和炉山镇茶园村。 They are mainly located in Majie Village, Qunfeng Village, Xinmin Village, Yungui Village of Yungui Township and Chayuan Village of Fenshan Township.

下午三点，考察团去威宁五里岗工业园，先去黔风堂茶业有限公司。 At three o'clock in the afternoon, the delegation went to Weining Wuligang Industrial Park, first to Qianfengtang Tea Industry Co.

黔风堂茶业有限公司的茶叶种植基地在哈喇河乡。 The tea planting base of Qianfengtang Tea Co., Ltd. is in the township of Hallahe.

20世纪50年代末60年代初，哈喇河乡种植了三千亩茶园，20世纪八九十年代后茶园逐渐荒废，无人养护采摘。 At the end of the 1950s and early 1960s, Harrah's River Township planted three thousand acres of tea plantations, the 1980s and 1990s after the tea plantations gradually deserted, no one to maintain the picking.

2011年，浙江商人应云燕看中了这些茶园，想打造黔红2721功夫红茶基地，把黔红2721红茶与印度大吉岭、福建武夷山捆绑为世界著名的高山红茶产地，并在威宁经济开发区创办了黔风堂茶业有限公司。 In 2011, Zhejiang businessman Ying Yunyan fancy these tea gardens, want to build Qianhong 2721 Kung Fu black tea base, Qianhong 2721 black tea and India Darjeeling, Fujian Wuyi Mountain bundled for the world-famous alpine black tea origin, and in the Weining Economic Development Zone founded Qianfengtang Tea Co.

2013年初，黔风堂茶业有限公司才正式生产黔红2721，该产品于2013年3月被中国茶叶博物馆收藏。 It was only at the beginning of 2013 that Qianfengtang Tea Co., Ltd. formally produced Qianhong 2721, which was collected in March 2013 by the China Tea Museum.

我们到黔风堂茶业有限公司时，它的加工车间还在建设中，我们直接去产品展示区参观。 When we arrived at Qianfengtang Tea Co., Ltd, its processing workshop was still under construction, and we went directly to the product display area for a visit.

老板应云燕是浙江人，曾经在福建做过茶生意。 The owner, Ying Yunyan, is from Zhejiang and used to do tea business in Fujian.

我先拍了一些产品的照片，应云燕请大家坐下来，听她介绍自己的产品。 I took some photos of the products first, and Ying Yunyan invited everyone to sit down and listen to her introduction of her products.

应云燕称她在打造世界海拔最高的红茶，因为种植基地的绝对海拔有2100米，地处北纬27度，又是曾经被荒芜的茶园，现在经过三年的休整和培植，已成为高原野化茶。 Ying Yunyan said she is creating the world's highest altitude black tea, because the absolute altitude of the planting base has 2,100 meters, located in the 27th degree of latitude north, and was once deserted tea plantations, and now after three years of rest and cultivation, has become a highland wild tea.

等应云燕讲完之后，我出于好意告诉她，茶叶界有个“北纬28度优化论”，北纬28度是全球最富饶最高产的茶叶生产带，如果主张北纬27度，可能会受到消费者的抵制和反对。 After Ying Yunyan finished her speech, I told her out of good intentions, the tea industry has a "28 degrees north latitude optimization theory", 28 degrees north latitude is the world's most fertile and high yielding tea production zone, if you advocate the 27 degrees north latitude, may be subject to consumer boycott and opposition.

我又说，威宁的绝对海拔高，相对海拔不高，没有违背坡地海拔500~800米的优势论，不如只打“世界高海拔红茶”口号。 I also said, Weining absolute altitude is high, relative altitude is not high, there is no contrary to the slopes of 500 to 800 meters above sea level, the advantage of the theory, it is better to only play "the world's high altitude black tea" slogan.

我们这次考察团同行的人没有研究茶叶的，他们见我讲的这些茶叶理论比较新颖，都点头赞成。 Our fellow travelers on this mission did not study tea, and they all nodded their heads in favor of these tea theories when they saw me talk about them in a relatively new way.

应云燕以为我是攻击她的茶叶品质，当场就跟我翻脸。 Ying Yunyan thought I was attacking the quality of her tea and flipped out with me on the spot.

吴茂钊先生马上暗示我不要继续说下去了，我也就离开展示区，走到公司门口等他们。 Mr. Wu Maozhao immediately implied that I should not continue, and I left the display area and walked to the entrance of the company to wait for them.

有些人认为我这次说话太冒失，他们也三三两两离开了展示区。 Some people thought I had spoken too boldly this time, and they left the display area in twos and threes.

大家才反应过来，也就有人与我交流起全国各地的茶叶。 It took a while for people to respond, and I had people exchanging tea with me from all over the country.

8月2日晚，考察团回到贵阳市，召开了一个简短的座谈会。 On the evening of August 2, the delegation returned to Guiyang City and held a short symposium.

我针对我走过的地方和品尝到的美食，答应写一些有关的美食文章。 I promised to write some food articles about it in response to the places I've traveled and the food I've tasted.

威宁是云、贵、川的咽喉要地，到三省都极其方便。 Weining is the throat of Yunnan, Guizhou and Sichuan, and is extremely convenient to all three provinces.

在军事上有重要的战略地位，为历代兵家常谋之地。 In the military has an important strategic position, for the successive generations of soldiers often seek a place.

清代及民国为驻军重镇，称为乌撒卫、威宁卫。 During the Qing Dynasty and the Republic of China, it was a major garrison town, known as Usa Wei and Weining Wei.

威宁是少数民族聚居的地方，自古就有土司制度，经济大权和生活物资为土司、土目和极少数的官僚把控，其中的茶叶也不例外。 Weining is a place inhabited by ethnic minorities, and since ancient times there has been the Tusi system, where the economic power and living materials are controlled by the Tusi, the Tumi and a very small number of bureaucrats, of which tea is no exception.

8月2日下午5点，我们来到草海游客接待服务中心，天空飘着雨点，气温开始下降，我们无法深入草海腹地欣赏景观，只好在草海的边上拍照留影。 August 2, 5:00 p.m., we came to the Grass Sea Visitor Reception Service Center, the sky drizzle, the temperature began to fall, we can not go deep into the hinterland of the Grass Sea to enjoy the landscape, had to take pictures at the edge of the Grass Sea.

为了避雨，我们随人到草海广场旁边的乌撒烤茶馆去喝茶，老板搬出烤茶罐，用电磁炉先烤茶叶，再冲开水，用瓷杯给我们盛茶，茶味极香，茶水浓烈，温馨滑爽。 In order to avoid the rain, we went with the people to the grass sea square next to the Usa baked tea house to drink tea, the boss moved out of the roasted tea canisters, with an induction cooker to roast tea first, and then brewed water, with porcelain cups to us tea, tea flavor is extremely fragrant, the tea is strong, warm and smooth.

威宁人喝罐罐茶，是为了获得精神慰藉。 Weiners drink pots of tea for spiritual solace.

冬春时节守着火炉能够驱寒御冷，夏秋时刻苦涩的茶水可以降温提神。 Keeping the fireplace in winter and spring can drive away the cold, and the bitter tea in summer and fall can cool down and refresh your mind.

提精神、助消化、祛病患、保健康，是威宁人公认喝罐罐茶的四大好处。 Lifting the spirit, helping digestion, getting rid of illnesses, and preserving health are the four major benefits of drinking pot tea recognized by the people of Weining.

在威宁的农村，回族人下地之前，他们要喝一罐早茶，说茶助人力，以便精神抖擞地开始一天的劳作和耕种。 In the rural areas of Weining, before the Hui people go to the ground, they drink a pot of morning tea, saying that tea helps manpower so that they can start the day's labor and cultivation in good spirits.

晚上收工回家，他们要喝一道晚茶，借茶消解浑身疲乏和舒筋活骨。 In the evening when they return home from work, they have to drink an evening tea to relieve their fatigue and relax their muscles and bones by means of tea.

威宁过去并不产茶，明末才开始种茶。 Weining did not produce tea in the past, and only began to grow tea at the end of the Ming Dynasty.

茶叶来自相邻的云南、四川和黔西北地区其他地方。 The tea comes from neighboring Yunnan, Sichuan and other parts of northwest Guizhou.

茶商做茶叶生意，就把茶叶运输到威宁来进行交易。 Tea traders do tea business, so they transport the tea to Weining for trading.

大多数茶叶是从云南输入，以云南普洱绿茶为佳，从不用红茶。 Most teas are imported from Yunnan, with Yunnan Pu'er green tea being the best, and no black tea is ever used.

交易的多是低档茶叶，很少有高档茶叶。 Mostly low-grade teas are traded, with very few high-grade teas.

煮罐罐茶需要一个小砂罐、一个水壶、一个茶器皿，才能组成一套完整的茶具。 A small sand jar, a kettle, and a tea vessel are needed to make a complete tea set for making potpourri tea.

小砂罐为纯砂器，高约10～12厘米，直径约5厘米，口沿有或无溢口，腹大有提耳，正好装一杯水。 The small sand jar is a pure sand vessel, about 10 to 12 centimeters high and 5 centimeters in diameter, with or without an overflow opening along the mouth, and a large belly with lifting ears to hold exactly one cup of water.

威宁人认为土陶罐煮茶不走茶味，能够更多地保持茶叶的香味和茶水的醇正。 Weining people believe that clay pots to cook tea does not go tea flavor, can be more to maintain the flavor of tea and tea mellow.

威宁能够生产小砂罐的地方很多，大家公认小米倮的砂罐最上乘。 Weining can produce a lot of small sand cans, it is recognized that the millet toms outlet sand cans are the most superior.

一个水壶是用来烧水的，铜壶不大，形似小鼓，便于携带。 A kettle was used to boil water; the copper kettle was small and shaped like a small drum, making it easy to carry.

盛茶饮茶的器皿即茶盏多用瓷杯。 Tea drinking vessels that tea calendars are mostly porcelain cups.

威宁人最初烤制茶叶用的是木柴烧火，其味醇正，茶香有特色。 The Weining people initially roasted tea with a wood fire, which has a characteristic mellow flavor and tea aroma.

后来开采煤炭，大家图方便用煤炭火烤茶。 Later, coal was mined and people used coal fires to roast tea for convenience.

现在讲究干净卫生，多用电磁炉烤茶。 Nowadays, we are concerned about cleanliness and hygiene, and more often use induction cookers to roast tea.

烤茶的过程是茶叶的第二次加工，用砂罐烤炙而成，柴火的气味透过砂罐染进茶叶里。 The roasting process is the second processing of the tea leaves, which is made by roasting them in a sand pot, and the odor of the wood fire tints the tea leaves through the sand pot.

罐罐茶传统的饮用方式有众饮和独饮，饮法基本一样。 Can-Can tea is traditionally drunk in crowds and solo, and the drinking method is basically the same.

威宁的少数民族自古有三五个人围着火盆、坐在火炉边烤茶的习惯，他们把这种烤茶叫罐罐茶。 Since ancient times, the ethnic minorities in Weining have the habit of roasting tea with three or five people around a fire pit, sitting by the fireplace, and they call this kind of roasted tea Can Can Tea.

这种饮茶方式在威宁成了人们日常生活的习惯，融入了他们每天的生活。 This way of drinking tea has become a habit of daily life in Vining and is integrated into their daily lives.

罐罐是茶具中一个必不可少的小砂罐，它是烤茶的工具。 A small sand jar is an essential part of the tea set for roasting tea.

由小砂罐烧热，把茶叶放在里面，要不断地摇动，簸动小砂罐，使茶叶在罐内慢慢膨胀变黄，待茶香溢出，这叫炕茶。 The small sand canister is heated and the tea leaves are placed in it, and it is called kangcha when the tea leaves slowly expand and turn yellow inside the canister, and when the aroma of the tea overflows, the tea is shaken constantly.

这个过程大约两三分钟，这也是一个饮茶者闻茶的过程。 This process takes about two to three minutes, and it's also a process where the tea drinker smells the tea.

意思是冲泡茶的时候要掌握好烤焙茶叶的温度，茶罐要烫，水要正烧开，只要做到这两点，次等的茶叶也能变成好的茶汤。 It means that when brewing tea, you have to master the temperature of the roasted tea leaves, the tea canister should be hot, and the water should be boiled properly, as long as you do these two things, the second-rate tea leaves can be turned into a good tea soup.

水涨就是水沸了。 Water rising is water boiling.

茶罐烫到什么程度是一种技艺，罐儿太烫可能把茶叶焙糊炒焦，火候不到起不到“变好”的作用。 Tea cans hot to what extent is a skill, cans too hot may be roasted and fried tea leaves, the fire can not play the role of "good".

烤炙茶叶的时候是看不见茶叶在罐子里的变化的，老练的烤茶高手全凭手感，砂罐均匀受热，干而不焦、焦而不煳，透出浓浓豆香，凭嗅觉和罐口边焙出的微烟来辨别茶是否已烤炙好了。 Roasted tea is invisible when the tea leaves in the pot of change, seasoned roasting tea masters by feel, sand cans evenly heated, dry and not burnt, burnt and not burnt, through the thick bean aroma, by smell and cans baked by the edge of the mouth of the micro-smoke to identify the tea has been roasted well.

手上的几摇几簸加上眼观鼻嗅，才见老手的功夫。 A few shakes and bumps of the hand plus eyeballing and sniffing is what shows the veteran's skill.

几人喝罐罐茶，在煎茶前由谁来掌管茶罐，大家总要谦让一番，其实是对茶艺的考验。 A few people drink pots of tea, who will be in charge of the tea pot before the decoction of tea, we always have to be humble, in fact, it is a test of the art of tea.

有长辈在场，年轻人通常都不敢担当此任。 Young people are usually afraid to take on this task in the presence of their elders.

再将刚烧开的水冲入砂罐，呲呲的声音响起，罐内白色气泡沸涌，形如莲花，茶香四溢，令人馋涎欲滴。 Then the freshly boiled water is rushed into the sand can, the sound of bared, white bubbles boiling inside the can, shaped like a lotus flower, the aroma of the tea is overflowing, mouth-watering.

茶叶中的灰尘、煳沫随莲瓣泛起，经去沫这个过程将其去除，再加入开水煮沸。 The dust and burnt foam in the tea leaves rises up with the lotus petals and is removed through the process of defoaming, then added to the boiling water and boiled.

反复几次，使茶充分煎熬，这叫煨茶。 Repeating the process several times so that the tea is fully decocted is called simmering the tea.

有的人不喝头道茶，用少量开水焌出茶香味，就把茶水倒掉，这叫洗茶，再冲第二道茶饮用。 Some people do not drink the first course of tea, with a small amount of boiling water out of the tea flavor, pour the tea, which is called washing tea, and then rushed the second course of tea to drink.

泡好的茶不能拿小砂罐直接饮，必须要倒入另外一种器皿（即茶杯、茶盏）里才能饮用。 The brewed tea cannot be taken directly from the small sand pot, but must be poured into another kind of vessel (i.e., teacups, teacups) in order to be consumed.

这是喝罐罐茶的讲究之处，无论是多人一起饮茶或者说一个人饮茶都要遵守这个规则。 This is a delicate part of drinking potpourri tea, and it is a rule that should be followed whether you are drinking tea with a number of people or by yourself.

茶水分次倒入茶盅，每盅为半杯左右，茶罐中要留下一些。 Pour the tea into the tea cups in small batches, each cup being about half a cup, leaving some in the tea canister.

几个人在一起喝罐罐茶，要先敬长者。 When several people get together to drink pots of tea, they have to honor the elders first.

用这种方法煨出来的茶水苦中回甜，茶香浓郁，滋润脏腑，撩拨食欲，醇香可口，回味悠长。 Simmered in this way out of the tea bitter sweet tea, tea aroma, moisturize the internal organs, provoke appetite, mellow and delicious, long aftertaste.

朋友聚会时煮罐罐茶，主人把水烧开，递给每人一个小砂罐，一个茶盅，由客人自己抓茶叶，多少自选，自己煨茶。 When friends get together to cook pots of tea, the host to boil the water, handed each person a small sand pot, a tea cup, by the guests to grab their own tea, how much to choose their own, their own simmering tea.

客人煨好茶后，主人端出燕麦炒面拌蜂蜜、糯米粑、苦荞粑、威宁洋芋、荞酥、玉米花、荞麦面等茶食，大家一边吃茶点一边闲聊。 Guests simmering tea, the host brought out oatmeal fried noodles mixed with honey, glutinous rice poi, buckwheat poi, Weining taro, buckwheat crisp, corn flower, buckwheat noodles and other tea, we eat tea while chatting.

茶与茶点搭配相得益彰，唇齿留香，回味无穷。 Tea and tea snacks complement each other well and leave a lingering aftertaste on the lips and teeth.

接着再往茶罐中加水，再熬再倒。 Then add more water to the tea canister and simmer and pour again.

一罐茶一般熬6～8次，就要换茶叶。 A tin of tea is usually boiled 6 to 8 times and the tea leaves have to be changed.

如果喝得不过瘾，可以再来一罐，重新烤茶。 If you don't get enough, you can have another tin and re-roast the tea.

威宁人常常是自烤自饮，不急着要喝多少茶，可以摆龙门阵，可以谈心事，可以谈工作。 Weiners often roast their own tea, there is no hurry to have much tea, you can set up a dragon door, you can talk about your heart, you can talk about your work.

2006年，贵州省茶叶科学研究所、贵州省绿茶品牌发展促进会的专家考察威宁历史后建议将罐罐茶更名为乌撒烤茶，并制定了规则。 In 2006, experts from Guizhou Provincial Tea Science Research Institute and Guizhou Provincial Green Tea Brand Development Promotion Association suggested to rename the Can-Can Tea as Wusar Roasted Tea after visiting the history of Weining and formulated the rules.

烤茶用具有火盆、水壶、茶盅、木炭等，烤制方式分备具、烘罐、投茶、烤茶、冲水、去沫、补水、分杯等八大步骤。 Roasted tea with a fire pit, kettle, tea cup, charcoal, etc., the roasting method is divided into preparation, baking canisters, tea, roasted tea, brewing, de-foaming, replenishment, cups, and other eight major steps.

这正如彝族谚语所云：“水烫茶罐辣，次茶当好茶；千年乌撒罐，一朝名天下！” This is just like the Yi proverb: "Hot water tea cans spicy, second tea as good tea; thousand years of Usha cans, one day the world famous!"

8月1日，我们到达最后一站威宁苗族、彝族、回族自治县。 On August 1, we arrived at our last stop in Weining Miao, Yi and Hui Autonomous County.

威宁位于贵州西北部，北、西、南三面与云南毗连，为贵州西大门，威宁有贵州屋脊之称。 Weining is located in northwestern Guizhou, north, west, south and Yunnan contiguous, for the western gate of Guizhou, Weining is known as the roof of Guizhou.

当天我们走访了多个企业，了解了高原野化茶、唐记威宁荞酥、苦荞油辣椒及威宁火腿等产品。 We visited a number of businesses that day and learned about products such as Highland Wild Tea, Tangji Weining Buckwheat Crisp, Buckwheat Oil Chili and Weining Ham.

走访完这些企业，已经是下午五点多钟，接待方看还有时间，我们又是远道而来的客人，就安排我们去县城西郊的草海观赏高山湖泊。 After visiting these enterprises, it is already more than five o'clock in the afternoon, the reception party to see there is still time, we are guests from afar, we arranged for us to go to the western suburbs of the county Caohai to view the alpine lakes.

草海位于乌蒙山脉山丛的中心，又名南海子、八仙海、松波湖，是贵州最大的天然湖泊。 Caohai is located in the center of the Wumeng Mountain Range mountain clusters, also known as Nanhaizi, Baxianhai and Songbo Lake, and is the largest natural lake in Guizhou.

我们来到草海游客接待服务中心，已经是下午五点多，天空飘着零零星星的雨点，但还是打消不了我们的兴致。 We came to the Caohai Visitor Reception Center, it was already more than five o'clock in the afternoon, the sky drifting sporadic raindrops, but still can not dampen our interest.

我们各自举起相机，不停地拍照。 We each raised our cameras and kept taking pictures.

半小时之后，气温开始大降，还起了大风，伴随着云雾和雨点向我们袭来。 Half an hour later, the temperature began to drop dramatically and a gale force wind, accompanied by clouds and rain, came our way.

我们都穿着夏装，根本没有考虑到高原的寒冷天气。 We were all dressed in summer clothes and didn't even consider the cold weather of the plateau.

无法深入草海腹地去欣赏风景，我们只好在草海的边沿勉强观察。 Unable to go deep into the hinterland of the Sea of Grass to enjoy the scenery, we had to barely observe from the edge of the Sea of Grass.

雨点越下越大，我们本来打算欣赏草海的愿望泡汤。 The rains were getting heavier and heavier and our intention of enjoying the Sea of Grass went out the window.

只好去游客接待服务中心避雨，在草海广场旁边，有个民俗博物馆，正在进行一场“威宁县斗古乡米乐砂陶制品展销”。 Had to go to the Visitor Reception Service Center to escape the rain, in the grass sea next to the square, there is a folk museum, is carrying out a "Weining County Dugu Township Mile sand pottery products exhibition and sale".

在那里我看到了一些非常熟悉的东西，那就是大砂罐，材质是砂的，但是没有我老家的砂罐那么粗糙，旁边还有茶罐、茶杯、茶壶、茶盏、茶盘等，与其组成一套。 There I saw something very familiar, that is, the big sand pot, made of sand, but not as rough as the sand pots in my old house, next to the tea pots, teacups, teapots, teapots, tealights, and tea plates, with which it forms a set.

虽然有些粗犷，看上去还是成套成组，像那么回事，也还美观、实用。 Although a little rough, it still looks like it comes in sets and groups, like that, and it's also still beautiful and functional.

看完这些展览，我就一直在想，他们是用这些东西煮茶喝吗？ After seeing these exhibits, I just kept wondering, did they make tea out of these?

我还想到其他地方去转转，但是因为不熟悉，不知道哪里有当地特产可以看，只见对面二楼的吴茂钊老师在喊我的名字，我顺着声音找去，那是一间茶馆。 I also wanted to go around to other places, but because I was not familiar with them, I didn't know where there were local specialties to look at, only to see Mr. Wu Maozhao on the second floor across the street calling out my name, and I followed the sound to find it, and it was a teahouse.

名字叫“乌撒烤茶馆”。 It's called "Ursa Roast Tea House".

威宁在川盐入黔的古盐道上，其实也是云南茶叶进入四川的茶马古道。 Weining is on the ancient salt road from Sichuan salt into Guizhou, and in fact, it is also the ancient tea-horse road from Yunnan tea into Sichuan.

现在的威宁开发区本来就是一个古老的军事要寨，叫威宁卫。 What is now the Weining Development Zone was originally an old military fortress called Weiningwei.

无论是盐和茶进入贵州还是四川，都要在这个关卡交税，也有很多商家在此歇息，慢慢形成了喝茶的习惯。 Whether it is salt and tea into Guizhou or Sichuan, have to pay taxes at this barrier, there are also many merchants rest here, slowly formed the habit of drinking tea.

乌撒烤茶馆的老板向我们介绍：乌撒是威宁的古称，也是彝族语的音译。 The owner of Usa Roasted Tea House introduced to us: Usa is the ancient name of Weining, which is also the phonetic translation of the Yi language.

烤茶是乌撒先民的一种原始饮茶方式。 Roasted tea is a primitive way of drinking tea for the ancestors of Usa.

它经历了多少年月，已经无法计算。 The number of years it has endured is impossible to calculate.

随着现代茶艺的兴起，古老的乌撒烤茶在慢慢地消失，茶馆老板看到这种文明即将消失殆尽，就自己掏钱在这里建了这个茶馆。 With the rise of the modern tea ceremony, the ancient Usa roasted tea is slowly disappearing. Seeing that this civilization is about to vanish into thin air, the owner of the teahouse built this teahouse here with his own money.

茶馆老板搬出乌撒烤茶罐和茶具，和我们聊起喝茶的事情。 The owner of the teahouse brought out the Usa roasted tea canisters and tea sets and talked to us about drinking tea.

我曾对云南的茶马古道有些了解，也熟悉这些路线，老板所说的和我所看到的文献相差无几。 I had some knowledge of the old tea-horse routes in Yunnan and was familiar with them, and what the owner said was not far from the literature I had seen.

老板先把茶罐放在电磁炉上烤热，再把茶叶放在茶罐里，在烤的过程中，轻轻翻动茶叶，除去茶叶的水分，烤出茶叶的香味。 The owner first puts the tea canister on the induction cooker to bake hot, then puts the tea leaves in the canister, and during the baking process, gently turns the tea leaves to remove the water of the tea leaves and bake out the flavor of the tea leaves.

再在电磁炉上用茶壶烧一壶开水，等水烧开放在一旁。 Then boil a kettle of boiling water in a tea kettle on an induction cooktop and set it aside when the water boils.

等茶叶烤出香味，茶叶的叶片完全烤脆，再把开水冲在砂罐里，开水与茶叶和茶罐相遇，发出呲呲的声响，激起的水花马上形成水雾，弥漫开来。 When the tea leaves are roasted with flavor and the leaves are completely roasted and crispy, then the boiling water is rushed in the sand canister, and the boiling water meets the tea leaves and the canister, making a bared sound, and the agitated water splash immediately forms a water mist that fills the air.

泡了两三分钟，老板把茶水倒入大茶杯，滤去茶叶和渣滓，再把茶水分在茶盏里。 After steeping for two or three minutes, the owner poured the tea into large teacups, strained out the leaves and dregs, and then divided the tea among the tealights.

老板见我们看着银灰色的茶盏发愣，就把茶水分在外表黄色的陶茶盏里。 When the owner saw us staring at the silver-gray tealights, he dispensed the tea in the yellow ceramic tealights on the outside.

茶水没有红茶的颜色那么深，比新鲜绿茶的又要稍微深些，与两三年的陈绿茶的颜色有些相似，为浅黄色。 The tea is not as dark as black tea, slightly darker than fresh green tea, and somewhat similar to the color of two or three year old green tea, which is light yellow.

我把茶盏端到嘴前，那气味极香，茶味浓烈，没有焦香味，喝在嘴里温馨滑爽，非常回甘。 I brought the tea to my mouth, it smelled extremely good, the tea flavor was strong, no burnt flavor, it was warm and smooth in my mouth, very sweet.

老板又拿出当地的特产荞酥，作为我们饮茶的点心。 The owner also brought out a local specialty, buckwheat cakes, as a snack for our tea.

喝一口乌撒烤茶，吃点又脆又酥的荞酥，当它落入口腔，立刻被茶水融化，又不会噎在喉咙里，喉咙上也不会产生颗粒状的感觉，随着茶水流入食道。 Take a sip of Usa Roasted Tea and eat some crunchy, crispy buckwheat pastry, which, when it falls into your mouth, is immediately melted by the tea without gagging in your throat or creating a grainy sensation on your throat as the tea flows into your esophagus.

我们坐了半个多小时，喝了三四盏乌撒烤茶，口里没有干燥的感觉，反倒觉得口腔、喉咙里润润的，自然生津，非常舒服，身心都很清爽、放松。 We sat for more than half an hour and drank three or four cups of Usa Roasted Tea, there was no dry feeling in our mouth, on the contrary, we felt moist in our mouth and throat, naturally generating fluids, which was very comfortable, and both our body and mind were refreshed and relaxed.

记得小时候在我的老家新化，老人饮茶有传统的茶俗和茶点，喝茶的过程也极其文雅和富有情趣。 I remember when I was a child in my hometown of Xinhua, the old people drink tea with traditional tea customs and refreshments, the process of drinking tea is also extremely elegant and interesting.

我们喝茶不单是喝一杯茶水，还有点心可以吃，多的时候甚至有八到十样点心。 We don't just drink a cup of tea, there are also snacks to eat, more often than not there are even eight to ten kinds of snacks.

那点心摆在八仙桌的正中央，大家围着坐在八仙桌的条凳上。 The dim sum was placed in the center of the eight-century table, and everyone sat around it on the bar stools.

桌子底下有一个大火盆，一面烧着暖融融的炭火，慢悠悠地喝着茶，不断有人给我们续开水和补充点心、瓜果。 There was a large fire pit under the table with warm coals burning on one side, and tea was sipped slowly as we were constantly refilled with boiled water and additional snacks and fruits.

讲究的家庭在举办寿宴、结婚宴、嫁女宴等红喜事时，一般都要送一份茶礼，由两个人抬着送到亲戚家，抬盒里有六至八样点心和当地极好的细茶叶，即碎红茶。 The sophisticated families in the organization of birthday banquets, wedding banquets, marriage banquets and other red wedding, generally have to send a tea gift, carried by two people to the relatives, carry the box with six to eight kinds of confectionery and the local excellent fine tea leaves, that is, crushed black tea.

把茶点和茶叶端上桌子，妇女们要用小碟盛好茶点，茶叶用铁锅煮开。 To bring the refreshments and tea to the table, the women were to serve the refreshments in small dishes and the tea was to be boiled in an iron pot.

茶点碟装在茶盘里，一盘四碟或两碟，双手捧着端到桌上，再一碟一碟地从茶盘里端出来放在桌面上。 Refreshment plates are served in a tea tray, four or two plates at a time, brought to the table with both hands, and then brought out of the tea tray one plate at a time and placed on the tabletop.

我十九岁进城，又混迹美食圈，随着年龄的增长，接触喝茶的人越来越多。 I came into the city at nineteen and got mixed up in the food scene, and as I got older, I was exposed to more and more tea drinkers.

他们多是喝一杯清茶，在茶宴上没有任何的点心，也不知道有茶俗和茶点，更不知道餐桌上还有茶礼之事。 They mostly drink a cup of tea, do not have any snacks at the tea feast, and do not know that there are tea customs and refreshments, and do not know that there is the matter of tea rituals at the table.

从2003年开始，我在全国各地漫游，也走访了全国各大产茶区，想对茶俗、茶点进行深入了解。 Since 2003, I have been roaming around the country and visiting the major tea-producing regions of the country, trying to gain a deeper understanding of tea customs and tea spots.

但是经过十多年的考察，我发现茶俗与茶点几乎不为茶人所关注。 But after more than a decade of inspection, I found that tea customs and refreshments are hardly the concern of tea people.

2013年7月，在贵阳考察时，吴茂钊先生告诉我黔西县有一种非常著名的茶点——羊场茶食，在这次考察中做了安排，我非常高兴，终于可以了解贵州的茶点了。 In July 2013, when I was on a study tour in Guiyang, Mr. Wu Maozhao told me that Qianxi County has a very famous kind of teatime snacks - Yangchang Tea Food, which was arranged in this study tour, and I was very happy that I could finally get to know about Guizhou's teatime snacks.

30日中午，我们赶到黔西县，住在黔西县招待所。 At noon on the 30th, we arrived at Qianxi County and stayed at the Qianxi County Guest House.

羊场乡位于黔西县城东南面，与织金县大坪乡隔河相望，毗邻沙井、金碧、雨朵、新仁，有苗族、彝族、白族、仡佬族、蒙古族等十多个少数民族，是个多民族聚居的乡镇。 Yangchang Township is located in the southeast of Qianxi County, across the river from Daping Township of Zijin County, adjacent to Shajing, Jinbi, Yuduo and Xinren, with more than ten ethnic minorities such as Miao, Yi, Bai, Gelao and Mongol, making it a multi-ethnic township.

2011年底，羊场乡改为金兰镇。 At the end of 2011, Sheep Farm Township was changed to Jinlan Township.

这里的地方特产以茶叶、茶食最为有名。 The local specialties here are most famous for tea and tea food.

羊场茶食曾经是清代宫廷的皇室点心，由四川杨大娘传入贵州。 Yangchang Tea Food was once a royal confection of the Qing Dynasty court, and was introduced to Guizhou by Yang Daniang of Sichuan.

杨家先祖是宫廷御点师，在宫里负责制作茶点，告老还乡后因违抗宫廷禁令将茶食制作工艺传到民间，全家遭到株连。 The ancestors of the Yang family were the royal pastry chefs of the palace, responsible for the production of refreshments in the palace, and the whole family was implicated for defying the ban of the palace by transferring the tea production process to the people after they returned to their hometowns.

杨大娘逃到云、贵、川三省边界，以乞讨为生，后到黔西的羊场乡，在文昌阁出家为尼。 Yang Daniang fled to the borders of Yun, Gui, and Chuan provinces, begging for a living, and then went to Yangchang Township in Qianxi, where she became a nun at Wenchang Pavilion.

清朝被推翻后，杨已年迈，追忆祖先，又偷偷试做茶食祭祀先祖。 After the overthrow of the Qing Dynasty, Yang was already old and remembered his ancestors, and secretly tried to make tea food to honor his ancestors.

她祭祀完后，一人吃不完，分给文昌阁里的尼姑和香客享用，大家吃后赞不绝口，纷纷要求向她学习制作工艺。 After her sacrifice, one person could not finish eating, distributed to the nuns in the Wenchang Pavilion and the incense to enjoy, everyone ate it with great praise, have asked to learn from her to make the process.

盛情之下，杨大娘将茶食的制作工艺泡、滤、舂、煮、揉、捣、搓、捏、剪、炸等十几道工序传授给乡邻。 With great hospitality, Yang Da Niang taught her neighbors a dozen procedures for making tea and food, such as brewing, straining, pounding, boiling, kneading, pounding, rubbing, pinching, cutting and frying.

羊场的老百姓一直延续到今天，当地人称它为羊场茶食。 The old people of Sheep Farm have continued to this day, and the locals call it Sheep Farm Tea Food.

每年的秋冬两季是羊场人做茶食的高峰期，只要走进羊场，在每个角落都能听到此起彼伏的舂碓声，令人心旌摇荡，把我们带入了他们那烂漫天真的童年，回到了羊场茶食的历史年月中。 Every year in the fall and winter is the peak of the sheep farm people do tea, as long as into the sheep farm, in every corner you can hear the pounding pestle and pounding sound, exciting, bringing us into their rosy and innocent childhood, back to the sheep farm tea in the history of the years.

茶食的制作方法极其考究，用优质糯米在低温的清水里浸泡45天左右，三五天换一次水。 The tea food is made in an extremely elaborate way, using high-quality glutinous rice soaked in low-temperature water for about 45 days, with the water changed once every three to five days.

捞出糯米滤干水分，用碓舂成米浆，用箩筛过筛，筛除米浆里的颗粒，将米浆和水捏成圆形粑粑，放入沸水里大火煮到粑粑里起蜂窝。 Fish out the glutinous rice and filter out the water, pound it with a pestle and mortar into a rice paste, sift it through a bamboo sieve to remove the particles in the rice paste, knead the rice paste and water into a round poop, and put it into boiling water and cook it over high heat until a honeycomb rises in the poop.

捞出粑粑放到碓里再次舂，直到起泡为止。 Fish out the poop and put it into the pestle and pound it again until it bubbles.

加去皮捣烂的野小豆根，它能起到保鲜、发酵、膨化的作用。 Add peeled and mashed wild pinto bean root, which acts as a preservative, fermenting, and bulking agent.

再次舂到起泡，直到米浆能挂片为止。 Pound again until bubbly, until the rice mixture can be hung.

捞出米浆，放在洒有干糯米粉的木板摊开成薄皮，约铜版纸厚薄。 Fish out the rice paste, put it on a wooden board sprinkled with dry glutinous rice flour and spread it out to form a thin skin, about the thickness of copper plate paper.

晾到半干，剪成鱼、兔、鸟、蝴蝶等各种图案，继续阴干。 Allow to dry until half dry, cut into various patterns such as fish, rabbits, birds, butterflies, etc. and continue to shade dry.

食用时用清油炸即可。 To serve, just deep fry in light oil.

一般是等清油烧到冒烟，下阴干的茶食片，光滑的茶食片即刻就从油底浮起，并且迅速膨胀两三倍，有近半厘米厚。 Generally waiting for the oil to smoke, under the shade of dry tea food pieces, smooth tea food pieces instantly from the bottom of the oil floats, and quickly expand two or three times, nearly half a centimeter thick.

茶食炸成耳朵状，中间凹进去，边沿翘起。 Tea food is fried in the shape of an ear, concave in the center and cocked at the edges.

沥干油滴，即可食用。 Drain drippings and serve.

我夹起摆在桌上大瓷盘里的一块微黄的茶食放进口里，它非常轻盈，舌尖如同托着一片树叶。 I picked up a piece of yellowish tea food set on a large china plate on the table and put it in my mouth; it was so light that the tip of my tongue held it as if it were a leaf.

表面有着薄薄的粉尘颗粒，当颗粒融化在舌尖上，就能感觉茶食表面被油炸起的小泡泡。 The surface has thin dust particles, and when the particles melt on the tongue, you can feel the small bubbles on the surface of the tea food being fried by the oil.

那浓郁的糯米香在口腔里弥漫开来，是那么的芳香，那么的迷人，那么的具有诱惑力。 That rich glutinous rice flavor filled the mouth, so aromatic, so charming, so seductive.

我转动舌头，酥脆的茶食马上在牙齿上碰撞，撞得咳咳作响，也慢慢开始融化，那香甜在舌尖上散开了。 I swiveled my tongue and the crunchy tea food immediately collided against my teeth, crashing and coughing, and slowly began to melt as well, the sweetness spreading across my tongue.

接着我喝了口桌上微温的茶水，非常舒服、顺畅。 Then I took a sip of the slightly warm tea on the table, which was very comforting and smooth.

那唇齿间留下浓浓的香味，清香直透肺腑，闭上眼睛可以细细品味，那神色皆醉，因此也称香酥醉。 That leaves a strong flavor between the lips and teeth, fragrance straight through the lungs, close your eyes can savor, that God are drunk, so also known as crispy drunk.

成都是茶的世界，也是茶馆的世界，更是品茶人的世界。 Chengdu is the world of tea, the world of teahouses, and the world of tea tasters.

盖碗茶最先是在成都出现的，喝杯盖碗茶、摆个龙门阵是老成都的特色。 Gai Bowl Tea first appeared in Chengdu. Drinking a cup of Gai Bowl Tea and having a Long Men Zhen (龙门阵) is a specialty of the old Chengdu.

盖碗茶包括茶盖、茶碗、茶船子三部分，故称盖碗或三炮台。 Gai Bowl Tea includes three parts: the tea cover, the tea bowl, and the tea boat, so it is called Gai Bowl or Three Fortresses.

上有盖、下有托、中有碗的茶具，又称三才碗，盖为天、托为地、碗为人。 A tea set with a lid on top, a tray underneath, and a bowl in the middle, also known as the San Cai Bowl, with the lid as the sky, the tray as the earth, and the bowl as the person.

茶船子又叫茶舟，是承受茶碗的茶托子。 Tea Boat Zi, also known as tea boat, is a tea tray that bears the tea bowl.

唐代德宗建中年间，西川节度使崔宁之女在成都发明盖碗，原来的茶杯没有衬底常常烫着手指，于是她发明了木盘子来承托茶杯，为了防止喝茶时杯子倾倒，又设法用蜡将木盘中央环上一圈固定杯子。 During the Tang Dynasty, during the reign of Emperor Dezong Jianzhong, the daughter of the Xichuan Festival Minister Cui Ning invented the gaiwan (covered bowl) in Chengdu, and the original teacups did not have a liner often burned fingers, so she invented a wooden plate to support the teacups, in order to prevent the cups from tipping over when drinking tea, and managed to fix the cups with a ring of wax in the center of the wooden plate.

后来，茶船改用漆环代替蜡环。 Later, tea boats switched to lacquer rings instead of wax rings.

盖碗茶的配料有茶叶、枸杞、红枣、桂圆、冰糖、胖大海、杏干、菊花、葡萄干、山楂、月见草花等，按季配装。 The ingredients of Gai Bowl Tea include tea leaves, wolfberries, jujubes, cinnamon, rock sugar, fat sea, dried apricots, chrysanthemums, raisins, hawthorns, and evening primrose blossoms, etc., which are dispensed on a seasonal basis.

茶盖放在碗内，要茶汤浓可用茶盖在水面轻轻刮一刮茶水上下翻转，轻刮则淡，重刮则浓，香而不清是一般茶，香而不甜是苦茶，甜而不活不称上等茶，只有鲜、爽、活的茶才是最好的茶。 Tea cover in the bowl, to tea soup thick available tea cover in the water gently scrape a scrape tea up and down, light scraping is light, heavy scraping is thick, fragrant and unclear is the general tea, fragrant and not sweet is bitter tea, sweet and not live is not known as the top tea, only fresh, crisp, live tea is the best tea.

品茶之时，茶盖置于桌面，表示茶杯已空；茶客临时离去，将茶盖扣置于竹椅之上，表示人未走远，少时即归，自然不会有人侵占座位，跑堂的也会代为看管茶具、小吃。 Tea time, the tea cover on the desktop, said the tea cups are empty; tea guests temporarily left, the tea cover buckle placed on top of the bamboo chairs, said that people are not far away, less time to return, naturally, no one will not encroach on the seat, running the hall will also be on behalf of the custody of the tea utensils, snacks.

续水时水柱临空而降，泻入茶碗，翻腾有声；须臾之间，戛然而止，茶水恰与碗口平齐，碗外无一滴水珠。 Renewal of the water column in the air and down, into the tea bowl, tumbling sound; in a moment, the abrupt end, the tea is exactly level with the mouth of the bowl, no droplets of water outside the bowl.

成都人喝盖碗茶有五道程序，一是净具，用温水将茶碗、碗盖、碗托清洗干净；二是置茶，盖碗茶饮的茶都是珍品茶，有花茶、沱茶，上等红茶、绿茶等，三五克即可；三是沏茶，用初沸开水冲茶，茶水至碗口沿，盖好碗盖；四是闻香，茶冲泡五分钟左右，右手提起茶托，左手掀盖，闻香舒腑；五是品饮，用左手握住碗托，右手提碗抵盖，倾碗将茶汤徐徐送入口中。 Chengdu people drink gaiwan tea has five procedures, one is a net device, with warm water will be tea bowls, bowls, bowls, bowl cover, clean; two is a tea, gaiwan tea tea drinking tea are treasures of the tea, flower tea, Tuocha, black tea, green tea, etc., three or five grams can be; three is a tea, tea with the first boiling water, tea, tea, tea to the mouth of the bowl along the bowl, cover the bowl cover; four is the smell of the incense, the tea brewing for five minutes or so, right hand lifting the tea, the left hand lifted the lid, smell the fragrance of the Shu heart; Fifth, drinking, holding the bowl with the left hand, the right hand to lift the bowl against the lid, tilting the bowl will be the tea soup Xu Xu into the mouth.

成都是个休闲的城市，最多的是茶馆，主要用于谈生意、集会与会客等。 Chengdu is a city of leisure, and the most numerous teahouses are mainly used for business talks, gatherings and meetings.

小的茶馆有一二十张桌子，大的有四十张以上的桌子。 Smaller teahouses have one or twenty tables, larger ones have forty or more tables.

据统计，成都市有三千家左右的市民茶馆，收费便宜，一个人十元一杯茶可以喝一个上午或一个下午，也就有很多人到茶馆喝茶、打麻将。 According to statistics, there are about three thousand citizens' teahouses in Chengdu, charging cheap, a person ten dollars a cup of tea can drink a morning or an afternoon, there are also many people to the teahouse to drink tea and play mahjong.

据我读过的《成都通览》统计，成都清末有街巷计516条，茶馆454家。 According to the statistics of "Chengdu Overview" that I have read, there were 516 streets and lanes in Chengdu at the end of the Qing Dynasty, with 454 teahouses.

1935年，成都《新新新闻》统计，成都有茶馆599家，每天接待茶客12万多人。 In 1935, the Chengdu Xinxin News counted 599 teahouses in Chengdu, receiving more than 120,000 tea drinkers every day.

而我在百度地图上搜索成都“茶馆”二字，发现成都有近万家茶馆。 I searched for the word "teahouse" in Chengdu on Baidu map and found that there are nearly 10,000 teahouses in Chengdu.

在成都最舒适最安逸的生活也许就是泡茶馆，我的岳父岳母从2007年到成都装修新房之后，我每年都要去成都三四次，常有亲戚朋友办酒席，就在餐馆里订几桌，一般中午是大餐或正餐，晚上还要吃便餐。 The most comfortable and restful life in Chengdu is perhaps to soak in a teahouse. After my in-laws came to Chengdu to renovate their new house in 2007, I had to go to Chengdu three or four times a year, and I often had relatives and friends hosting banquets, so I booked a couple of tables in a restaurant, and usually had a big meal or a full meal at noon, and then a casual meal in the evening.

办酒席的人家一般会在餐馆附近找个茶馆，包一两间房，亲戚朋友吃完中饭，就去茶馆喝茶，大家可以打打麻将，到了下午五六点再去饭店吃饭。 The people who hosted the banquet will generally find a teahouse near the restaurant, pack a room or two, relatives and friends after lunch, go to the teahouse to drink tea, we can play mahjong, to five or six o'clock in the afternoon and then go to the restaurant to eat.

我每次回成都，都会去参加亲戚的酒席，所以去茶馆的次数也多。 Whenever I go back to Chengdu, I go to my relatives' banquets, so I go to teahouses a lot.

我也许是劳累的命，不适宜待在茶馆里，如果是与别人谈事，那倒是要找个茶馆，谈起来方便、自由、安静。 I may be a laborious life, not suitable to stay in the teahouse, if it is to talk with others, it is rather to find a teahouse, to talk convenient, free and quiet.

广汉是成都的一个县级市，传承了许多成都的风俗习惯，也有它自己的独特魅力。 Guanghan is a county-level city in Chengdu, inheriting many of Chengdu's customs and traditions, as well as its own unique charm.

住在广汉，我喜欢它的自由，没有大城市的拥挤和喧闹，人们静静地在自己的圈子里漫步，享受独立的生活。 Living in Guanghan, I love the freedom it offers, without the crowds and noise of a big city, people quietly stroll in their own circles and enjoy their independence.

就是到了晚上，人都上街了，也比大城市显得松散些。 It's at night, when people are out on the streets, that it seems looser than the big cities.

印象最深的是那些古老的人力三轮车，每天在城市的角落里转悠，把小城变得热闹起来。 What I remember most are those ancient human-powered tricycles that go around the corners of the city every day, bringing the small town to life.

小小的广汉城，有三千辆人力三轮车，还有不少机动三轮车，这些三轮车奔波在街道的每个角落，起到的士的作用。 In the small city of Guanghan, there are 3,000 human-powered tricycles and quite a few motorized tricycles, which run around every corner of the streets and play the role of cabs.

广汉是小城，街道狭小，多几个人就觉得拥挤。 Guanghan is a small town with narrow streets, and a few more people feel crowded.

本来冷清的街道，有几辆人力三轮车跑过，也就感觉热闹了一些，有了些城市的气息。 Originally cold streets, there are a few human tricycles run through, also feel a little more lively, have some city atmosphere.

我住在广汉的一个月的时间里，很少打车，其实也无车可打。 In the month I lived in Canton, I took very few cabs, in fact, there were no cabs available.

每天出门，走到小区门口，手一扬，就有很多人力三轮车围上来，随便选一辆，告诉师傅要去的地址，三轮车就悠悠地载着我在街道上摇晃，像坐在平稳的轿子里，身体在车里微微起伏。 Every day out of the house, walked to the door of the neighborhood, hand raised, there are many human tricycles surrounded, randomly choose one, tell the master to go to the address, the tricycle will leisurely carry me in the street rocking, like sitting in a smooth sedan chair, the body in the car slightly undulate.

广汉人也喜欢坐人力三轮车，无论是上班下班、上学下学，很多父母不送小孩上学，两三个同学合租一辆人力三轮车去学校。 Guanghan people also like to take a rickshaw, whether it is to work off work, go to school, many parents do not send their children to school, two or three students to rent a rickshaw to go to school.

我喜欢在三轮车上打盹，不用担心睡着了下错地方，到了目的地，司机就会把我叫醒。 I love napping on the tricycle, I don't have to worry about falling asleep and getting off at the wrong place, the driver wakes me up when I get to my destination.

心情好时，我就坐在车里欣赏路边的风景。 When I'm in the mood, I just sit in the car and enjoy the roadside scenery.

广汉不大，可以看清街上摆摊的老汉、路边的茶馆、幽深的小巷，这些都让我感到新鲜。 Guanghan isn't big enough to see the old men who set up stalls on the streets, the roadside teahouses, and the deep alleys, all of which were new to me.

摆摊的老汉，坐在街道旁，身边放着个竹篮，装着些旧时代的古董。 The old man who set up the stall, sitting on the side of the street, with a bamboo basket beside him, containing some antiques from the olden days.

老人眯缝着眼睛看着走来走去的人群，他在回忆自己的光辉岁月，却忘不了做生意的念头，还要把旧时的古董搬出来，寻找买家。 The old man squinted his eyes at the crowds of people walking around as he reminisced about his glory days, but he couldn't forget the idea of doing business and having to bring out the old antiques and find buyers.

竹篮里的东西早就被城市生活淘汰，那些古朴的洋火和古铜色烟卷都显出历史的厚重感。 The contents of the bamboo basket have long been eliminated by city life, and those quaint foreign fires and bronze-colored cigarettes show the weight of history.

偶尔，老人拿起里面的一支烟卷，轻轻地叼在烟杆上，享受那美妙的滋味。 Occasionally, the old man picked up one of the cigarettes inside and gently held it on the stem, enjoying the wonderful flavor.

烟卷是用一片烟叶卷起，没有任何包装，切成两寸长一段，可直接装入烟斗。 Tobacco rolls are rolled from a single leaf, without any wrapping, and cut into two-inch segments that fit directly into a pipe.

看着这些老玩意，让我这个行走天涯的人不由得想起它们的来历。 Looking at these old things reminds me, as a person who walks the earth, where they came from.

路边的茶馆，继承了成都的传统。 The roadside teahouses carry on the tradition of Chengdu.

成千上万家茶馆，没有重复的招牌，让我这个外地人看得眼花缭乱。 Thousands of teahouses with no repeating signs dazzled me as an outsider.

坐着人力三轮车，在大街小巷溜达，或者寻找幽深清静的茶馆，是广汉生活的一件趣事。 Taking a rickshaw, skirting the streets and alleys, or searching for a deep and quiet teahouse is an interesting part of life in Guanghan.

广汉人也喜欢在茶馆里谈生意，一杯茶下来，就海阔天空地聊起那些风花雪月，一天也说不完，商机也在这里一一展开。 Guanghan people also like to talk about business in the teahouse, a cup of tea down, the sea and the sky to talk about those flowers and snow, a day is not finished, business opportunities are also unfolding here one by one.

坐上人力三轮车，钻进那狭小的小巷，虽然那里没有古老文明的痕迹，也没有江南水乡的美景，却有让人记忆深刻的小店和美食，那是漂泊的思念。 Get on a rickshaw and get into the narrow alleys. Although there are no traces of ancient civilization there, nor the beauty of the Jiangnan water town, there are memorable small stores and delicacies, which are the thoughts of wandering.

四川人在饮食上与南方人和北方人都不同，他们米面并重，特色小吃也非常多。 The Sichuan people are different from both the southerners and northerners in their diet; they give equal weight to rice and noodles and have a great variety of specialty snacks.

广汉也不例外，广汉小巷的代名词是小吃。 Guanghan is no exception to the rule, and the alleys of Guanghan are synonymous with snacks.

清闲的时候，我就坐上一辆人力三轮车，让司机带我去寻找美食，穿过一条条幽深的小巷，找到想吃的金丝面、玻璃饺子、夫妻肺片、叶耳粑、三合泥等。 In my spare time, I would get on a rickshaw and ask the driver to take me on a culinary quest, walking through deep alleys to find what I wanted to eat such as jinshi noodles, glass dumplings, husband and wife's lung slices, leaf ear poi, and samhain mud.

吃饱了，夕阳西下，太阳照在我脸上，十分享受。 After I had eaten my fill, the sun was setting and I was enjoying it very much as it was shining on my face.

我到广汉是夏天，有时办完事已是中午，回住处要坐人力三轮车经过一条又一条小巷，司机经常选择树荫处走，看见一群三轮车司机把车放在树荫下，自己坐在车里打盹，那酣睡的姿态各异，让人有说不尽的感想。 I went to Guanghan is the summer, sometimes finished the business has been noon, back to the residence to take a rickshaw through an alley and an alley, the driver often choose to walk in the shade, saw a group of tricycle drivers to put the car in the shade of the trees, sitting in the car to nap, that sound sleep posture, let a person have to say endless feelings.

夜幕降临的时候，蜗居在家里的男人、女人都走上了街道，打着各式各样的蒲扇在街上闲游，多的是三五个人聚在一起闲聊。 When night falls, men and women who live at home at a snail's pace take to the streets, wandering about with various kinds of bushels, and more often than not, three or five people get together to gossip.

坐三轮车回家，要不停地打铃开道，满街就会响起一片三轮车的铃铛声，刚到广汉的人，会以为是音乐演唱会开场。 When you go home by tricycle, you have to keep ringing the bell to open the way, and the street will be filled with the sound of tricycle bells, and people who are new to Guanghan will think that it is the opening of a music concert.

2016年11月4日，我与妻子带着五岁的大儿子和刚出生两个多月的小儿子去四川探亲。 On November 4, 2016, my wife and I went to Sichuan to visit our relatives with our older son, who was five years old, and our younger son, who was just over two months old.

此行的目的是让岳父岳母见见他们的小外孙，然后一家人再随岳父岳母去崇州的老家。 The purpose of the trip was for the in-laws to meet their little grandson, and then the family would follow the in-laws to their hometown in Chongzhou.

我们在成都、广汉等地停留了几日，于11日前往崇州，来到岳母老家崇州市燎原乡安顺场。 We stayed in Chengdu and Guanghan for a few days, and then traveled to Chongzhou on the 11th, to Anshunchang, Liaoyuan Township, Chongzhou City, the hometown of my mother-in-law.

第二天，我们参观了距离安顺场十多里地的大邑县安仁镇刘文彩的刘氏庄园——大邑刘氏庄园博物馆。 The next day, we visited the Dayi Liu Manor Museum, the Liu Manor of Liu Wencai in Anren Township, Dayi County, more than ten miles from Anshun Field.

我参观完刘氏庄园，内心极为震撼：成都在历史上是西南的茶叶重镇，这么大的刘氏庄园，又是国家4A级景区，竟然没有专门销售本地特色茶叶的店面。 I visited Liu's Manor, extremely shocked: Chengdu in history is the Southwest's tea town, such a large Liu's Manor, and is a national 4A scenic spot, there is no store specializing in the sale of local characteristics of tea.

这让我误以为崇州本地不产茶叶，我询问岳母之后才知道，安顺场不产茶，但是周边地区产茶。 This made me mistakenly think that Chongzhou does not produce tea locally, I asked my mother-in-law and then realized that Anshunchang does not produce tea, but the surrounding areas do.

于是对崇州茶叶产生了兴趣。 So there was an interest in Chongju tea.

在回安顺场的途中，岳母又给我讲起她小时候在横断山脉背茶的故事。 On the way back to Anshunchang, my mother-in-law told me the story of how she carried tea in the Hengduan Mountains when she was a child.

那时家里穷，她很小就跟随父母兄弟一起上横断山脉背茶，横断山脉山势险峻，多有峭壁，一般人平时走在上面尚且胆战心惊，何况还要背着一篓茶，但这难不倒从小翻山越岭的他们，横断山脉给了他们山一样的背脊，也养育了一方勤劳淳朴的崇州儿女。 At that time, the family was poor, she was very young to follow her parents and brothers on the Hengduan Mountain Range back tea, Hengduan Mountain Range, mountainous and steep, many crags, the average person usually walk on the top of the still scared, not to mention a basket of tea on the back, but it's hard to beat them from childhood mountains, the Hengduan Mountain Range to give them the same as the mountain of the backbone, but also raised a party of industrious and simple sons and daughters of Chongzhou.

12日下午，我携带的小孩奶粉吃完，无法继续待在乡下，我们不得不离开安顺场前往崇州市区购买奶粉。 On the afternoon of the 12th, the children's milk powder I was carrying ran out, and unable to continue to stay in the countryside, we had to leave Anshunchang to go to Chongzhou city to buy milk powder.

我们住进宾馆，在宾馆对面的餐馆吃饭时，服务员给我们泡了一壶红茶。 We checked into our hotel and when we ate at the restaurant across the street from the hotel, the waiter made us a pot of black tea.

她给我倒了一杯，我端起一喝，觉得那茶香味比较浓，回甘时有一丝丝的甜味儿冒出来，有点特别。 She poured me a cup, and when I picked it up and took a sip, I thought the tea was a bit special with a stronger aroma and a hint of sweetness bubbling up in the aftertaste.

我喝过很多四川的红茶，却尝不出这是什么红茶。 I've had a lot of black tea from Sichuan and I can't taste what kind of black tea this is.

我又喝了一口，仔细辨别，确定以前没有喝过这种茶，因此想找服务员看看她们的茶叶。 I took another sip, carefully discerned it, and determined that I hadn't had this kind of tea before, so I wanted to ask the waiter to look at their tea.

我们点了蒜泥拐肉、黑豆花、京酱肉丝、叶儿粑等几样川西平原上的民间菜肴。 We ordered a few folk dishes from the western Sichuan plains, including garlic mashed abducted pork, black bean flower, shredded pork in Beijing sauce, and yeh er ba.

这些菜肴来自民间，虽然制作比较精细，但也不乏油腻。 These dishes come from the folklore, and while they are more elaborately prepared, they are no less greasy.

我们边吃饭边喝枇杷红茶，等吃完饭，没有感觉到一点油腻。 We drank loquat black tea with our meal and by the time we were done, we didn't feel a bit greasy.

我想：这枇杷红茶是好茶，吃油腻的川西民间菜肴，喝这种茶正合适，可以带来清爽和舒服的感觉。 I thought: this loquat black tea is good tea, and it's just the right kind of tea to bring refreshment and comfort when you eat greasy Szechuan folk dishes.

第二天，我们来到坐落在凤栖山下的街子古镇，先是沿着味江河走，河水不深，河面比较宽。 The next day, we went to the ancient town of Jiezi, which is situated under Fengqi Mountain, and started by walking along the Flavor River, which is not deep and is relatively wide.

在唐公别院尽头是瑞龙桥，连接这座桥的街道就是街子古镇的主要街道。 At the end of Tanggong Bieyuan is Ruilong Bridge, and the street connecting this bridge is the main street of Jiezi Old Town.

走过清代字库古塔广场，街道中间有一条小河。 Walking through the square of the Qing Dynasty Zigu Guta, there is a small river in the middle of the street.

街道两边店铺林立，我却注意到了一个雕塑，是驼茶叶的马匹。 While the street was lined with stores, I noticed a sculpture of horses humping tea.

我心想，四川是西南茶马古道的发端，也是古代茶马交易的地方。 I thought to myself that Sichuan was the beginning of the ancient tea-horse route in the southwest and the place where the ancient tea-horse trade took place.

西南茶马古道是不是经过崇州和街子古镇？ Did the Southwest Tea Horse Road pass through Chongzhou and Jiezi Ancient Town?

我们走了一段，岳母和妻子带着大儿子走在我前面，我一个人落在后面。 We walked for a while, with my mother-in-law and wife walking ahead of me with my oldest son, leaving me alone behind.

我边走边拍，特别是看到那些美食：汤麻饼、叶儿粑、冻糕馍馍，我就忍不住停下来拍照、品尝。 As I walked around, I couldn't help but stop to take pictures and taste the food, especially when I saw the delicacies: souvlaki, yerba mate, and parfait buns.

不知不觉我走到一栋独立的房子前，它没有像别的商铺一样连接着其他的房屋，而是独立成一栋，大门前有影壁，一看就是曾经的衙门设计。 Unconsciously I walked to a separate house, it was not connected to other houses like other stores, but was a separate building with a shadow wall in front of the main door, which at first glance looked like the design of a former government office.

在影壁的背面，我看到了一幅《茶马古道线路图》的浮雕，那山岭、道路、河流清晰可见，中间有“山横水远”四个大字，可以清晰地看到川藏南线、川藏西线。 In the back of the shadow wall, I saw a "Tea and Horse Road Route Map" relief, the mountains, roads, rivers are clearly visible, in the middle of the "mountains across the water far away," four big words, you can clearly see the southern line of Sichuan-Tibet, Sichuan-Tibet Western Route.

我念完这首民歌，体会到横断山脉中背茶人的艰辛和危险，也印证了昨天岳母讲的背茶故事的真实性。 After I read this folk song, I realized the hardship and danger of tea-carrying people in the Hengduan Mountains, and confirmed the truth of the tea-carrying story told by my mother-in-law yesterday.

对着这幅地图，可以看出川藏西线茶叶的行走地图，他们从成都出发，经过崇州、大邑、邛崃、芦山、名山、雅安、荥经、泸定和康定，再进入西藏地区，把茶叶贩卖给藏民。 Against this map, you can see the walking map of tea along the western route of Sichuan-Tibet, they started from Chengdu, passed through Chongzhou, Dayi, Qionglai, Lushan, Mingshan, Ya'an, Xingjing, Luding and Kangding, and then entered the Tibetan area to sell the tea to the Tibetans.

我回过头来，看到这栋房子的大门上有三个篆书的字“茶马司”，大门左边有唐文宗大和九年的《大唐榷茶律》和《文成入藏茶为礼》两幅线条画，右边有《大宋茶法》和《茶马互市成鼎盛》两幅线条画。 When I looked back, I saw three characters in seal script "Tea and Horse Division" on the gate of the house. On the left side of the gate, there were two line drawings of "The Laws of Questionable Tea in the Great Tang Dynasty" and "Tea as a Ritual for the Entry of Wencheng into Tibet" from the 9th year of the reign of Emperor Wenzong of the Tang Dynasty, and on the right side, there were two line drawings of "Laws of Tea in the Great Song Dynasty" and "Tea and Horse Mutual Exchange Markets Becoming a Thriving Market".

我不由自主地走进茶马司的大门，才知道是对川藏西线古代背茶的情景再现。 I couldn't help but walk into the gate of the Tea Horse Division, only to realize that it was a recreation of the ancient tea-carrying scenario on the western route of Sichuan and Tibet.

右边第一个为蜀州茶号的实景，我知道曾经的崇州地界归蜀州管辖。 The first one on the right is an actual view of the Shuju Tea House, and I know that at one time the boundaries of Chongzhou were under the jurisdiction of Shuju.

墙壁上有一个茶税救国的数据图吸引了我，都是销售边茶的数据记录，记载了义兴茶号一万一千引、天兴茶号九千四百引、恒泰茶号四千五百引等。 On the wall there is a tea tax to save the country's data chart attracted me, are the sales of border tea data records, recorded Yi Xing tea number 11,000 citation, Tian Xing tea number 9,400 citation, Heng Tai tea number 4,500 citation and so on.

第二个为藏寨锅庄的实景，即藏区的茶叶店铺。 The second is an actual view of a Tibetan potpourri, a tea store in Tibet.

在玻璃柜里，我看到了许多用于辅助茶马交易的茶引凭证和民国时期的纸质货币。 In the glass case, I saw many tea citation vouchers and Republican-era paper currency used to aid in the tea-horse trade.

左边第一个为裕兴茶店的实景，大门口有“裕国兴家”的匾额，厅里有蜡像雕塑，展示背茶人的形态。 The first one on the left is the actual scene of Yu Hing Tea Shop, with a plaque of "Yu Guo Xing Jia" at the main entrance and a wax sculpture in the hall showing the form of a tea carrier.

女人最少可以背六捆，男人背十二捆，小孩也可以背四到六捆。 Women can carry at least six bundles, men twelve, and children four to six.

裕兴茶店门口立了一块石碑，为唐代李谷子书的“山高”，明代无名氏书的“水远”，还有其他茶叶店的设计模型。 A stone tablet was erected at the entrance of Yuxing Tea Shop, which is "Mountain High" written by Li Guzi in Tang Dynasty, "Water Far" written by Anonymous in Ming Dynasty, as well as other design models of tea stores.

宋神宗熙宁年间，在四川四路设立提兴茶马司，负责四川茶叶收购和以茶易马的工作。 Song Shenzong Xining years, set up in the four roads in Sichuan Tixing Tea and Horse Division, responsible for the purchase of tea in Sichuan and the work of tea for horses.

直到清代康熙四十四年才废止。 It was not abolished until the forty-fourth year of Kangxi in the Qing Dynasty.

我参观完大厅，准备往里走。 I finished my tour of the lobby and was ready to head inside.

看到一个横幅“高山湿地泉水煮茶”，还有一行小字“文井江镇第一高峰（大包顶）湿地泉水、原生态崇州野放名茶”。 I saw a banner saying "Tea made with spring water from high mountain wetland" and a small line saying "Wetland spring water from the first peak of Wenjingjiang town (Dabao top), original Chongzhou wild tea".

再走近，看到门口又立了一块小牌子，上面写着“唐代名茶蜀州早春黄茶”。 Closer to the door, I saw another small sign, which reads "Tang Dynasty famous tea Shushu early spring yellow tea".

我走进大厅，中间是一张茶几，一位男士在那里读书。 I walked into the hall and in the center was a coffee table where a man was reading.

大厅两头有玻璃柜台，放着各式各样的“崇州唐代历史名茶野放黄茶”。 At both ends of the hall, there are glass counters with various kinds of "Chongzhou Tang Dynasty Famous Tea Wild Yellow Tea".

其实大厅里的茶只有一种野放黄茶，包装有大有小，大的是50克一袋，两袋合卖，还有5克一袋和20克一袋的。 In fact, there is only one kind of tea in the hall of the wild release of yellow tea, packaging has a large and small, large is 50 grams of a bag, two bags sold together, there are 5 grams of a bag and 20 grams of a bag.

我本来打算买一袋崇州黄茶回去喝喝，可各处看了看，见价格也不便宜，便作罢。 I was going to buy a bag of Chongzhou yellow tea to go back to drink, but looked around, see the price is not cheap, then stop.

我突然有个想法，在原产地品尝崇州黄茶，也许会更有味。 I suddenly had an idea that it might be more flavorful to taste Chongzhou yellow tea at its origin.

我来到茶几旁，开始拍摄茶几上的什物。 I went over to the coffee table and started photographing the tchotchkes on it.

我看到他打开一个瓷罐子，里面就是黄茶。 I saw him open a porcelain jar and inside was yellow tea.

我举起相机，迅速拍了两张照片。 I raised my camera and snapped two quick pictures.

他从瓷罐里舀了一勺茶叶，放在白瓷茶碗里，冲洗一次之后，就开始泡茶。 He scooped a spoonful of tea leaves from a porcelain jar and placed it in a white porcelain tea bowl, rinsing it once before he began to brew it.

我把他洗干净的茶叶和刨出来的茶水各拍了一张照片，他看到我用相机记录泡茶的过程，就明白了我的意思，于是每做完一个动作，他都会停下来等我拍摄。 I took a picture of each of his cleaned tea leaves and the shaved tea, and when he saw me documenting the process of making tea with my camera, he understood what I meant, so after each action, he stopped and waited for me to take a picture.

他请我坐下来，一起品尝他的野放黄茶。 He invited me to sit down and join him for a taste of his wild release yellow tea.

恭敬不如从命，我于是坐下来，安心地好好品一品崇州的野放黄茶。 Respectfully, I then sat down to savor the wild released yellow tea of Chongzhou.

只觉第一泡黄茶比较淡，有茶的清香，却没有绿茶的青味，不浓烈，很优柔。 I just feel that the first infusion of yellow tea is relatively light, with the fresh aroma of tea, but without the green flavor of green tea, it is not strong, and it is very gentle.

我干脆坐好，等待他泡第二泡茶。 I simply sat back and waited for him to make a second cup of tea.

第二泡，茶味幽长，没有刺激感。 On the second infusion, the tea flavor is long and without irritation.

我们连续喝了三泡，就开始扯各自的生活。 We drank three brews in a row and started yanking on our respective lives.

我们喝完一轮茶，大厅里走进来一位美女，她说他们同在一个微信群，一起聊过天，今天是特意来看野放黄茶的。 We finished a round of tea, the hall walked in a beautiful woman, she said they were in the same WeChat group, talked together, today is specially come to see the wild release of yellow tea.

当她问及茶叶是野生好还是野放好时，我被这个问题惊到。 I was surprised by the question when she asked if the tea was better wild or free-range.

接待我的刘先生笑着说，野放茶是安全的，野生茶可不一定安全哦。 Mr. Liu, who received me, said with a smile that wild tea is safe, but wild tea is not necessarily safe.

我怀里的孩子开始不安起来，我知道他是饿了。 The baby in my arms was getting restless and I knew he was hungry.

眼看他们聊得热闹，我还想咨询一些问题，已经没有时间了，就与刘先生打招呼告别，结束了这趟奇妙的野放茶之旅。 Seeing them chatting animatedly, I still want to consult some questions, there is no time, so I said goodbye to Mr. Liu and ended this wonderful wild tea trip.

2013年7月9日，我与朋友王洪坤、唐沛权等六人从长沙出发，准备从成都去神农架，途经成都时，一行人到宽窄巷子的庐恺老宅院去喝茶。 July 9, 2013, I and my friends Wang Hongkun, Tang Peiquan and other six people from Changsha, ready to go from Chengdu to Shennongjia, passing through Chengdu, a group of people to the wide narrow alley Lu Kai old mansion to drink tea.

说实话，我每年去四川，火车的起点站和终点站都在成都市，见朋友、走亲戚都要去成都，却没有去过武侯祠和宽窄巷子这两个地方。 To be honest, when I go to Sichuan every year, the train starts and ends in Chengdu, and I go to Chengdu to meet friends and relatives, but I have never been to the Wuhou Ancestral Temple and the Wide and Narrow Alley, both of which are in Chengdu.

很多亲戚朋友都笑话我没有到过成都，我也觉得很冤枉。 Many of my relatives and friends laughed at me for not having been to Chengdu.

这次的安排，我一样没有抱很高的期望，只是随着大部队活动而已。 I didn't have high expectations for this arrangement as much as I did, just moving with the pack.

吃完中饭，大家都以散步的形式出游。 After lunch, we all headed out on a walking tour.

天空下着小雨，我们也没有撑伞。 It was drizzling and we didn't have umbrellas.

大家走了四五分钟，就到了宽窄巷子口子的广场上。 The group walked for four or five minutes and arrived at the square at the mouth of the Broad and Narrow Alley.

看到这个广场，我一下子就明白了，这不就来到了宽窄巷子吗？ When I saw this square, I instantly realized that it was not coming to the Broad and Narrow Alley.

我指着巷子口的门楼给他看，他脸上马上洋溢着笑脸。 I pointed out the gatehouse at the mouth of the alley to him and a grin immediately spread across his face.

广场上游人如织，多是一些女士和外地的游客。 The square was crowded with tourists, mostly ladies and out-of-towners.

据我对成都人的了解，本地人特别喜欢去宽窄巷子，所以这附近集中了很多茶馆和餐馆，据说成都最贵的私房菜馆都在宽窄巷子里。 From what I know about Chengdu people, the locals especially like to go to the Broad and Narrow Alley, so there are a lot of teahouses and restaurants clustered around this neighborhood, and it's said that the most expensive private restaurants in Chengdu are located in the Broad and Narrow Alley.

我却在想，这样的雨天，如果在宽窄巷子里寻一处安静的茶馆，听着雨喝着茶聊着人生，那该是一件多么惬意的事情。 But I was thinking, such a rainy day, if you find a quiet teahouse in the Broad and Narrow Alley, listening to the rain and drinking tea and chatting about life, it would be such a pleasant thing.

我这样想着，就走进了宽窄巷子的门楼。 With this in mind, I walked into the gatehouse of the Broadwalk.

仿佛宽窄巷子里的世界发生了改变，忽然雨越下越大，我不得不从包里取出雨伞。 It was as if the world had changed in the Broad and Narrow Alley, and suddenly the rain got heavier and heavier, and I had to take my umbrella out of my bag.

那古老的青石板街面，被雨水洗刷得十分清亮，有的还能照出人的影子。 The old green stone street surface, washed by the rain is very bright, some can still shine out the shadow of a person.

宽窄巷子的街面不宽，也就四五米的样子，两旁的老房子一栋接一栋。 Wide and narrow alley street is not wide, just four or five meters, both sides of the old houses one after another.

还有些房子的墙角长出了青苔，房子多是由青砖砌成，带着一份古老的典雅和尊贵。 There are still some houses with moss growing out of the corners of the walls, and the houses are mostly made of green bricks, carrying an old elegance and honor.

我最喜欢这些地方，有人文的味道，又有历史的痕迹，走在这样的石板街上，就像在翻读历史。 I like these places the most, with the flavor of humanity and the traces of history, walking on such stone streets is like reading through history.

我想在这条宽窄巷子里走走，寻找成都的遗韵。 I want to walk around this Broad and Narrow Alley to find the legacy of Chengdu.

也许他们没有这个安排，也许他们没有这个情怀，就急急忙忙喊我们去一家茶馆。 Maybe they didn't have that arrangement, maybe they didn't have the sentiment, so they hurriedly called us to a tea house.

我只拍了“里仁门德”等几张照片，就被他们喊住了前行的脚步。 I only took a few pictures of "Riren Mende" and so on, and then they stopped me in my tracks.

我本来心中有些不高兴，但是不能随着自己的性子，也就没有发作。 I had been a little upset in my mind, but I couldn't go along with my own nature, so I didn't have a fit.

进馆前我没有仔细看，只知道那栋房子像个城门，远看有垛墙，却只开了半扇门。 I didn't look closely before entering the museum, except that the house looked like a city gate, with palisade walls from a distance, but only half open.

我从拱门里走进去，有一个照壁，等我走到院子里，才发现这处院子有些趣味，布置得很优雅。 I walked in through the archway, there was a photo wall, and when I got out into the courtyard, I realized that there was some interest in the grounds, which were elegantly laid out.

虽然是按着曾经的摆设没有大的变动，可以看出曾经的主人是非常有品位的人，而且是个知识分子。 Although it was left as it was once furnished without major changes, you could tell that the former owner was very classy and an intellectual.

我们一行大概有二十多人。 There were about twenty of us in the group.

在大堂屋里，已经有两三桌客人了。 In the lobby house, there were already two or three tables of guests.

我们的人在剩余的桌子边坐下来，塞得满满的，根本找不到空位，只有在走廊上选个位置坐下，刚好有两个小圆桌，我们就围着坐下来。 Our people sat down at the remaining tables and were so stuffed that we couldn't find an empty seat, so we had to pick a spot in the hallway, which just happened to have two small round tables, so we sat down around them.

走廊的视野很开阔，与照壁之间有个不足两丈见方的天井，采的是自然光。 The corridor has a wide view, and there is a patio less than two feet square between it and the wall, with natural light.

看到照壁上有“庐恺”两字的篆书，照壁与走廊连接的一面墙壁爬满了爬山虎，临近墙壁有一棵枇杷树。 There are two characters of "Lu Kai" in seal script on the wall, the wall connecting the wall and the corridor is covered with creepers, and there is a loquat tree near the wall.

让我觉得是那么幽静，那么温馨。 It made me feel so secluded and cozy.

不一会儿，茶端上来了，服务员用的是茶盘送茶，由茶盘托着几个青花瓷盖碗。 Not long after, the tea served up, the waiter used a tea tray to deliver tea, by the tea tray holding a few celadon porcelain gaiwan.

让我想起了成都的盖碗茶，我面前的盖碗为上有盖、下有托、中有碗的三才碗，又叫三炮台。 Reminds me of Chengdu's Gai Bowl Tea, the Gai Bowl in front of me is a San Cai Bowl with a lid on the top, a rest on the bottom, and a bowl in the center, also known as the Three Cannonball Bowl.

我知道成都人的喝茶习惯和品茶的标准，揭开碗盖，仔细看是上等的绿茶。 I know Chengdu people's tea-drinking habits and tea-tasting standards. Uncovering the bowl and looking closely at it is a fine green tea.

我闻到茶特别的香甜，茶水看着特别清澈，我知道这是好茶，就开始品味起来。 I smelled the tea especially sweet, the tea looked especially clear, I knew it was good tea, so I began to savor it.

我捏着碗盖上的杯柄，拿起碗盖，轻轻把茶碗里的茶水刮一刮，茶水开始有着淡淡的茶色。 I pinched the handle on the lid of the bowl, picked up the lid, and gently scraped the tea from the bowl, which began to take on a light tea color.

我用左手握住碗托，右手提碗抵盖倾碗将茶水徐徐送入口中，喝了一小口。 I took a small sip of tea with my left hand holding the bowl rest and my right hand lifting the bowl against the lid and tilting the bowl to bring the tea slowly into my mouth.

口里顿时感觉清爽，茶叶的鲜、爽立刻呈现，我知道这就是成都人传说中的盖碗好茶。 My mouth immediately felt refreshing, the freshness and crispness of the tea immediately appeared, and I knew that this was the good tea in a gaiwan bowl that Chengdu people had been told about.

我慢悠悠地喝着这盖碗茶，完全沉浸在茶的世界里。 I sipped this gaiwan tea slowly, completely immersed in the world of tea.

这些文字写得真切，道出了盖碗茶的真谛。 These words are truly written and speak to the true meaning of gaiwan tea.

雨越下越大，我干脆以“既来之则安之”的心理，静下心来好好地品味这碗盖碗茶，好好地琢磨成都的盖碗茶，觉得蛮有意味。 The rain is getting heavier and heavier, I simply take the mentality of "if you are here, you should be at peace" and calm down to savor this bowl of gaiwancha and ponder Chengdu's gaiwancha, which I find quite meaningful.

直到下午三点多，雨停了，我们才离开庐恺老宅院和宽窄巷子。 We didn't leave Lukai's old mansion and the Broad and Narrow Alley until after 3pm when the rain stopped.

自从2012年底，我认识了老乡王洪坤之后，我们常在一起聚会，主要是喝茶、聊茶和讨论茶叶种植。 Since the end of 2012, after I met my hometown Wang Hongkun, we often meet together, mainly to drink tea, talk about tea and discuss tea planting.

王洪坤曾是娄底市中心医院的医生，后来下海经商，主要从事医疗器材的维修与销售，生意稳定之后，想投资其他产业。 Wang Hongkun was a doctor in Loudi City Center Hospital, and then went to sea in business, mainly engaged in the repair and sale of medical equipment, business stability, want to invest in other industries.

在朋友唐沛权的帮助下，王洪坤在老家新化的天门乡承包了一块五千亩的山地，其中有三百多亩茶园，是新化县20世纪90年代在这里栽种的一千多亩茶园的幸存者。 With the help of his friend Tang Peiquan, Wang Hongkun contracted a five-thousand-acre piece of mountain land in his hometown of Xinhua's Tianmen Township, including more than 300 acres of tea plantations, the survivors of more than 1,000 acres of tea gardens planted here in Xinhua County in the 1990s.

王洪坤想把这片茶园恢复，就开始接触茶叶和茶叶种植。 Wang Hongkun wanted to restore this tea plantation, so he began to contact tea and tea planting.

我在2013年4月左右去过王洪坤的茶园，海拔超过一千米，有山岚包裹，茶园在山窝窝里，方圆两三里没有人家，土壤也厚实，茶树生长态势很好，只是冬天会下雪，茶树上会结冰，春茶发芽的时候稍微晚些。 I have been to Wang Hongkun's tea plantation in April 2013 or so, the altitude of more than one thousand meters, there are mountain arbors wrapped, the tea plantation in the mountain nest, a radius of two or three miles without people, the soil is also thick, the growth of the tea tree is very good, only in the winter it will snow, the tea tree will be frozen, the spring tea buds a little bit later.

根据这种情况，我们决定做一款新茶，干脆命名为寒茶。 Based on this situation, we decided to make a new tea simply named Chill Tea.

我建议如果想做高档茶，可以去神农架的古清生茶园看看，向古清生学习做高档茶、订制茶的学问。 I suggest that if you want to make high-grade tea, you can go to Shennongjia's Ancient Ching Sheng Tea Garden to see and learn from Ancient Ching Sheng about making high-grade tea and customized tea.

2013年7月5日，我与王洪坤一起喝茶，他问我有时间去神农架吗？ On July 5, 2013, I had tea with Wang Hongkun and he asked me if I had time to go to Shennongjia.

正逢我的新书刚上市，准备送一本给古清生，也就答应了他。 It coincided with the release of my new book, and I was going to send a copy of it to Ching-Sheng Ku, so I agreed to do so.

王洪坤安排的是先到成都，再从成都去神农架，大概走一圈的时间为一周。 Wang Hongkun arranged is first to Chengdu, and then from Chengdu to Shennongjia, roughly walk around the time for a week.

7日早晨，我五点半就起床。 On the morning of the 7th, I got up at 5:30am.

王洪坤还没有到，我只好站在小区门口的马路边等他。 Wang Hongkun has not yet arrived, I had to stand on the side of the road at the entrance to the neighborhood to wait for him.

闲来无事，我从背包里找出一本书来，那是我读过多遍的《从文自传》。 With nothing else to do, I pulled a book out of my backpack, the Autobiography of a Congenialist, which I had read many times.

现在没有其他书，只好重读以消遣时光。 I don't have any other books right now, so I have to reread it to pass the time.

我左等右等，六点半才看到王洪坤的车。 I waited and waited until 6:30 to see Wang Hongkun's car.

我上车在后排坐好，也不多问，任由他们开车。 I got in the car and took a seat in the back and didn't ask any questions, letting them drive.

后来，他们又接了几个人，所有的人才汇齐。 Later, they picked up a few more people before all of them converged.

我们一共七人，分乘两台车，从长沙出发。 There were seven of us, in two cars, traveling from Changsha.

我感觉肚子有点饿，就问车上的其他人吃早餐了吗？ Feeling a little hungry, I asked the others on the bus if they had breakfast.

结果大家都没有吃早餐，于是大家开始商量到河西再去吃早餐，然后上高速公路。 As it turned out, no one had breakfast, so we all started talking about getting to Riverwest and then getting on the freeway for breakfast.

结果另一辆车上的人比我们还饿，一路找早餐店。 Turns out the people in the other car were hungrier than we were, looking for a breakfast place the whole way.

也巧合，在高桥茶叶市场的神农茶社找了家早餐店，每个人吃了一碗粉。 Coincidentally, too, we found a breakfast place at the Shennong Tea House in Gaoqiao Tea Market and had a bowl of noodles for each of us.

我心里嘀咕，我们这次的目的是去神农架找古清生学习种茶、做茶的事，结果出发点就与茶叶有关，而且与神农氏有关。 I muttered in my mind that our purpose this time was to go to Shennongjia to find Gu Qingsheng to learn about tea planting and making, but it turned out that the starting point was related to tea and to Shennong.

我想，这次远行，托神农氏的福，应该会有所收获。 I think that this expedition, thanks to the blessing of Shennong's, should be rewarding.

我没有把心里的想法告诉他们，只是先前的那些急躁和烦恼没有了，反倒觉得轻松起来。 I didn't tell them what was on my mind, just that all the impatience and worry from earlier was gone, and I felt relaxed instead.

我想，我们寻茶虽然有目的性，但是要根据环境和情况而定，性急也许没有用。 I think that while we are purposeful in our search for tea, it depends on the context and the situation, and haste may not be helpful.

我想把沿路的产茶县市给大家一一介绍，顺便一起交流。 I'd like to introduce you to the tea-producing counties and cities along the road, and in the meantime, we'll talk together.

如果能够遇上茶园，我们可以去咨询、游览。 If we can come across a tea garden, we can go for counseling and excursions.

大家觉得我的想法很好，却对一路的茶叶产区不了解，这种空对空的闲聊，其实没有实质的帮助，我也就干脆不抱希望，随他们去，于是先睡了一觉。 People think I have a good idea, but do not know all the way to the tea-producing areas, this kind of air-to-air chitchat, in fact, no substantive help, I simply do not hope, let them go, so first sleep.

等我醒来的时候，车已经到了常德市附近，快到桃源县的桃花源。 By the time I woke up, the car was already near the city of Changde, almost to the Peach Blossom Garden in Taoyuan County.

我想了想，突发奇想，我们是在沿着沈从文青年时期的足迹在高速公路两旁寻找茶叶。 I thought about it, and it occurred to me that we were following in the footsteps of Shen Congwen's youth as he searched for tea on both sides of the highway.

1918年，沈从文随竿军流徙于湘、川、黔边境与沅水流域一带。 In 1918, Shen Congwen migrated with the pole army to the border of Hunan, Sichuan and Guizhou and the Yuan water basin.

这与我早晨翻看《从文自传》是否有些巧合呢？ Is there some coincidence that this coincides with my morning flipping through the Autobiography of Fromage?

桃源县盛产茶叶，有茉莉花茶、柚花茶、桃花源乌龙花茶、桃源大叶乌龙茶等。 Taoyuan County is rich in tea, including Jasmine Tea, Pomelo Tea, Taoyuan Oolong Flower Tea, and Taoyuan Big Leaf Oolong Tea.

沈从文离开他的湘西世界，也曾在常德待了一段时间，到桃源县来找工作未果，才出发去北京的。 Shen Congwen left his western Hunan world and also spent some time in Changde, coming to Taoyuan County to look for a job unsuccessfully before setting off for Beijing.

桃源是沅水从山河进入平河的分界线。 Taoyuan is the demarcation line of the Yuan River from the Shan River into the Ping River.

沈从文住的地方在桃源县城，离桃花源景区不远。 Shen Congwen lived in Taoyuan County, not far from the Peach Blossom Garden scenic spot.

现在桃花源周边群集各类茶叶的生产厂家，擂茶也成为桃花源景区的一大特色。 Now the Peach Blossom Garden is surrounded by a cluster of various types of tea manufacturers, and the tea ring has become a major feature of the Peach Blossom Garden scenic area.

我曾两次到桃花源附近，走过这条高速公路。 I've been near Peachland twice and traveled this highway.

第一次是2012年上半年，我到常德市考察景区景点建设情况，到桃花源看看，听当地人讲他们建设桃花源景区的艰辛。 The first time was in the first half of 2012, I went to Changde City to investigate the construction of scenic spots, to see the Peach Blossom Garden, and to listen to the locals talk about their hardships in building the Peach Blossom Garden scenic spot.

第二次是2012年底，中央电视台《行走的餐桌2》拍摄组在拍摄《常德味道》期间，我作为这部纪录片的美食顾问兼省旅游局随行人员，特地从长沙来到拍摄现场。 The second time was at the end of 2012, when CCTV's "Walking Table 2" filming team was filming "Taste of Changde", I came from Changsha to the filming site as a food consultant for the documentary and an accompanying staff member of the Provincial Tourism Bureau.

踩线的刘编导确定了拍摄桃源三绝作为《常德味道》的一部分，桃花源景区管理处不仅不支持他们的拍摄活动，还要向拍摄组人员收取门票才能进桃花源景区拍摄。 Liu, the editor-director of the treadmill, determined to film the three best things about Taoyuan as part of the "Taste of Changde", and the management office of the Taoyuan Scenic Spot not only didn't support their filming activities, but also had to charge the filming crew a ticket in order to enter the Taoyuan Scenic Spot for filming.

我作为省旅游局的拍摄随行人员，只能代表省旅游局找景区负责人谈这个节目的重要性和省旅游局对这部纪录片的重视，于是连夜赶到桃花源景区，与他们商讨这事，最终才得以解决。 As a filming entourage of the Provincial Tourism Bureau, I could only represent the Provincial Tourism Bureau to find the person in charge of the scenic area to talk about the importance of this program and the importance of the Provincial Tourism Bureau to this documentary, so I rushed to the Peach Blossom Garden Scenic Area in the night to discuss this matter with them, and only then was it finally resolved.

我给大家讲起这些趣事，并且介绍了桃花源的大叶茶，他们都很兴奋，开始进入工作状态。 I told them all these interesting stories and introduced them to Peach Blossom's Big Leaf Tea, and they all got excited and started getting into the swing of things.

我们马上进入怀化市沅陵县。 We immediately entered Yuanling County, Huaihua City.

沅陵上扼川黔下蔽湖湘，素有“湘西门户”之称。 Yuanling is known as the "Gateway to Western Hunan", as it is in the grip of Sichuan-Guizhou and Hunan.

我对沅陵县的记忆有两个，一个是它的晒兰肉，一个是它的碣滩茶。 I have two memories of Yuanling County, one of its sun-dried orchid meat and the other of its Jietan tea.

沅陵是沈从文的第二故乡，他写的辰州就是这里，是当时进入湘西的要道和首站。 Yuanling was Shen Congwen's second hometown, and it was here that he wrote about Chenzhou, which was the main road and first stop into western Hunan at that time.

1933年，沈从文出资请哥哥沈岳霖在沅陵建了芸庐，作为母亲安度晚年和兄弟姊妹集会之所。 In 1933, Shen Congwen asked his brother Shen Yuelin to build Yunlu in Yuanling as a place for his mother to spend her twilight years and for his siblings to gather.

他的《边城》《湘西》《湘行散记》等书籍都写到了沅陵。 His books "Border City", "Western Hunan", and "Scattered Notes on a Journey to Hunan" were written about Yuanling.

1937年，沈从文偕夫人张兆和、孩子龙珠、虎雏返回湘西，居住在沅陵的芸庐，创作了一部散文集《湘西》，其中有《沅陵的人》等篇章。 In 1937, Shen Congwen returned to western Hunan with his wife Zhang Zhaohe, his children Longzhu and Huying, lived in Yunlu in Yuanling, and composed a collection of essays, "western Hunan", which includes chapters such as "People of Yuanling".

我给王洪坤他们介绍了沅陵县及碣滩茶，他们对碣滩茶很感兴趣，想去看看茶园并了解其制作方式。 I introduced Yuanling County and Jietan Tea to Wang Hongkun and they were very interested in Jietan Tea and wanted to see the tea plantation and learn about how it is made.

才介绍完，高速公路右边就出现了满山满坡的茶园，那就是碣滩茶场的茶园。 Just after the introduction, the right side of the highway appeared full of hills and slopes of tea plantations, that is the Jietan Tea Plantation's tea plantations.

高速公路上没有服务区，我们只能继续往前走。 There were no service areas on the highway, so we had to keep going.

高速公路在上坡的时候，我们终于找到了一个服务区，于是全部下车去看路边的碣滩茶场的茶园。 The highway was going uphill when we finally found a service area, so we all got out of the car to see the tea plantations of the Jietan Tea Farms on the side of the road.

茶园的茶蔸有近一人高，每个茶蔸都要两个人才能环抱得下，茶芽有一寸多长，还没有采摘。 The tea root and stem of the tea garden is nearly one person high, each tea root and stem requires two people to be able to embrace, the tea buds are more than an inch long and have not been picked.

我想去了解一下他们的制作工艺，看有哪些地方可以借鉴，却没有找到高速公路的出口。 I wanted to go through their production process to see what I could learn from them, but I couldn't find an exit from the highway.

最后，发现就近有个官庄出口，我就向大家提议，我们从官庄下高速，一是去了解一下碣滩茶和官庄毛尖的制作工艺和茶的品质，二是已经到了午饭时间，去吃顿饭，还可以品尝沅陵晒兰肉。 Finally, I found that there is a Guanzhuang exit nearby, so I proposed to everyone that we get off the highway from Guanzhuang, firstly, to learn more about the production process of Jietan Tea and Guanzhuang Maojian and the quality of the tea, and secondly, it was already lunch time, so we went to have a meal, and we could also taste the Yuanling sun orchid meat.

大家都很高兴，一致同意。 Everyone was happy and unanimous.

我们下了高速公路，出了官庄收费站。 We got off the highway and exited the Guanzhuang toll booth.

因为前面修路，无法通行，我们只好在官庄镇上找了一家餐馆吃饭。 We had to find a restaurant in the town of Guanzhuang to eat because of the road construction in front of us, which made it impassable.

官庄是产官庄毛尖的地方，值得去看看。 Guanzhuang is the place that produces Guanzhuang Mao Jian, so it's worth a visit.

唐沛权想吃晒兰肉，一进饭店就问老板有没有晒兰肉，老板知道是来了了解沅陵的外地人，马上从冰箱里拿出晒兰肉，那一厘米厚的晒兰肉片呈桃红色，足有四指宽，看上去比较厚实。 Tang Peiquan want to eat sun orchid meat, a restaurant into the boss asked if there is a sun orchid meat, the boss knows is coming to understand the Yuanling outsiders, immediately from the refrigerator to take out the sun orchid meat, the one-centimeter-thick slices of sun orchid meat is peach-colored, foot four fingers wide, looks thicker.

他们把晒兰肉拿过来要我验明正身，我拿着仔细看了看，这确实是块上好的晒兰肉，就要老板把那块晒兰肉炒了。 They brought the sun orchid meat over to me for identification, and I took a closer look at it, and it was indeed a good piece of sun orchid meat, and asked the owner to fry the piece of sun orchid meat.

老板见我点了菜，脸上露出一些不舍，但是唐沛权跟着服务员拿着晒兰肉去了厨房，他也只好作罢。 When the boss saw me order, some reluctance appeared on his face, but Tang Pei Quan followed the waiter to the kitchen with the sun orchid meat, so he had no choice but to give up.

我拉老板坐下，问他官庄到产碣滩茶的十五峰和十八谷有多远，他告诉我中间在修路，要绕道，需要三四个小时。 I pulled the boss to sit down and asked him how far it was from Guanzhuang to the fifteen peaks and eighteen valleys where Jietan tea is produced, and he told me that the middle of the road was under construction, and that a detour would be required, taking three or four hours.

我又问他距产官庄毛尖的地方有多远，他告诉我从官庄镇到介亭、黄金坪要一两个小时，路不好走。 I also asked him how far away from the production of Guanzhuang Mao Jian place, he told me from Guanzhuang town to jieting, gold ping to one or two hours, the road is not good.

他以为我是来收茶叶的商贩，就跟我说他有上好的官庄毛尖，想请我品尝。 Thinking that I was a tea vendor, he told me that he had some fine Guanzhuang Mao Jian and wanted to invite me to taste it.

老板拿出官庄毛尖，亲自洗了几个陶瓷茶杯，给我们几个人泡了官庄毛尖，那汤色翠绿明亮。 The boss took out the Guanzhuang Mao Jian, personally washed a few ceramic teacups, and brewed Guanzhuang Mao Jian for a few of us, and that soup color was bright green.

我喝了几口，滋味浓郁，饮后有余甘。 I took a few sips and the flavor was rich and had a sweet aftertaste.

老板向我们介绍，官庄毛尖初为晒青绿茶，1927年，湘西王陈渠珍的参谋龚石如在官庄开了家西南茶叶店，为了争夺市场，他使用权力征集湘西各地名茶艺师改革官庄毛尖的制茶工艺，将晒青改为烘青，茶叶品质大有提高。 Boss introduced to us, Guanzhuang Mao Jian first sun green tea, in 1927, Xiangxi King Chen Quzhen's staff Gong Shiru in Guanzhuang opened a Southwest tea store, in order to compete for the market, he used the power to enlist the famous tea masters from all over the Xiangxi to reform the Guanzhuang Mao Jian tea production process, will be changed from sun green to baked green, tea quality has improved greatly.

官庄毛尖采用特制的小木盒包装，规格多样，有一两、二两、三两、四两、一斤等。 Guanzhuang Mao Jian is packaged in a special small wooden box with various specifications, such as one or two taels, two or three taels, four or four taels and one catty.

木盒精美，小巧玲珑。 The wooden box is beautifully compact.

20世纪50年代，又改为半烘半炒，经杀青、初揉、初干、做条、提毫、烘干制成，以香高、味醇闻名湘西。 In the 1950s, it was changed to half baking and half frying, after killing, initial kneading, initial drying, making strips, lifting milligrams, and drying, and it is famous for its high fragrance and mellow flavor in western Hunan.

老板带我来到二楼的一个房间里，那有各式包装好的官庄毛尖。 The owner took me to a room on the second floor where there were all kinds of packaged Guanzhuang Mao Jian.

我看了看，知道这是用传统工艺制作的官庄毛尖，就交流起制作工艺来，并打算去官庄亲自看看。 I looked at it and realized that it was Guanzhuang Mao Jian made with traditional craftsmanship, so I exchanged ideas about the production process and planned to go to Guanzhuang to see for myself.

但考虑到去碣滩茶场和官庄介亭都要几个小时，耽误的时间太多，就决定不去了。 However, considering that it would take a few hours to get to Jietan Tea Farm and Guanzhuang Jieting, which would be too much of a delay, I decided not to go.

吃完午饭，我们继续赶路，但是我们都没有闲着，在车上讨论湘西州的茶叶。 After lunch, we continued our journey, but none of us were idle, discussing the tea of Xiangshi state in the car.

湘西是湖南产茶的好地方，有名的有古丈县的古丈毛尖、保靖县的黄金茶，只是离我们前行的高速公路很远，无法去，大家说着各自喝到湘西茶叶的趣闻，非常有感触。 Xiangxi is a good place to produce tea in Hunan, famous for the Guzhang Mao Jian of Guzhang County, the gold tea of Baojing County, just far from the highway we traveled ahead, unable to go, we said that each of them drank the anecdotes of the tea of Xiangxi, very touching.

过了湘西州首府吉首市20公里，就是闻名世界的苗族矮寨。 Twenty kilometers past Jishou, the capital of Xiangxi Prefecture, is the world-famous Miao Short Village.

吉首茶峒高速公路经过这里，大家熟悉的是矮寨大桥。 The Jishou-Chadong highway passes through here, and is familiarly known as the Shiozhai Bridge.

吉首古称乾城，沈从文的老家凤凰县就属于湘西州，吉首市距凤凰县城50公里左右。 Jishou is known as Qiancheng in ancient times, and Shen Congwen's hometown, Fenghuang County, belongs to Xiangxi Prefecture, and Jishou is about 50 kilometers away from Fenghuang County.

其实沈从文的青年时期是以凤凰为中心，以湘西为半径活动的，上至湘渝黔边界，中有湘西，下至辰州。 In fact, Shen Congwen's youth was centered on Phoenix, with western Hunan as the radius of his activities, up to the border of Hunan, Chongqing and Guizhou, in western Hunan, and down to Chenzhou.

我们经过几个峡谷和吊桥，有人马上反应过来，我们已经到了矮寨大桥附近。 We passed through a couple of canyons and suspension bridges, and someone immediately reacted to the fact that we were near the Shorzhai Bridge.

在雄伟的大吊桥上看峡谷，一时感觉风光无限。 Seeing the canyon from the majestic Great Suspension Bridge was a moment of scenic beauty.

我们都想找个地方把车停下来，走到吊桥上去好好看看下面的峡谷，却没有可以停车的地方。 We all wanted to find a place to pull over and walk up to the suspension bridge to get a good look at the canyon below, but there was no place to park.

连续过了两个峡谷，我们再也忍不住了，就给另外一辆车打电话，要他们在前面看到吊桥，我们就在桥头停一下，大家下车看看这里的风景。 After crossing two canyons in a row, we couldn't hold back any longer, so we called the other car and asked them to see the suspension bridge up ahead, so we'd stop at the end of the bridge and we'd all get out of the car and check out the view.

这样的做法是危险的，但是为了欣赏美景也不得不出此下策。 This is dangerous, but it has to be done in order to enjoy the view.

我们翻过一个山岭，就看到前面有座吊桥，比前面走过的两座吊桥还要大。 We went over a ridge and saw a suspension bridge in front of us, bigger than the two suspension bridges we had walked on earlier.

我想应该是矮寨大桥了，不管三七二十一，我都要去看看。 I think it's the Shorzhai Bridge, no matter what.

车慢慢靠近，矮寨大桥离我们越来越近，我看得越来越清楚。 As the car slowly approached, the Shorzhai Bridge got closer and closer to us, and I could see it more and more clearly.

我们的车自然减速前行，发现有一个可以停车的地方，只是离桥头有点距离。 Our car naturally slowed down and moved on, and we found a place where we could park, just a bit away from the bridge.

为了更好地看到矮寨大桥和矮寨大峡谷，我们就把车靠近桥头。 To get a better view of the Shorzhai Bridge and the Shorzhai Grand Canyon, we moved the car closer to the bridge.

车刚停稳，我们就不管不顾地开门下车，各自奔向桥头。 As soon as the car stopped, we opened the door and got out regardless and each ran to the bridge.

这座桥的设计比较人性化，有专门的观景台，可以容纳十人左右。 The bridge has a more user-friendly design with a special viewing platform that can accommodate about ten people.

等我走到观景台，才知道这座桥与矮寨是相通的，有一条游步路可以到观景台，也可以从观景台下去，只是路为旋梯，刚够一人上下。 When I walked to the observation deck, I realized that the bridge is connected to Shorzhai, and there is a walking path to the observation deck and down from the observation deck, only the path is a spiral staircase, just enough for one person to go up and down.

我马上打开相机，不管其他就开始拍照。 I immediately turned on my camera and started taking pictures regardless of anything else.

就听到有人在喊话：“开走开走，这里不能停车！” Someone was heard shouting, "Drive away and go away, you can't park here!"

我才注意到桥头还有一间房子，从房子里走出一个年轻的小伙子，看他身上穿的衣服就知道他是高速公路警察。 It was only then that I noticed there was another house at the end of the bridge, and out of the house came a young fellow who, by the clothes he was wearing, I could tell was a highway policeman.

我知道矮寨大桥到河谷的高度为330米左右，要想拍到好的照片，那要站在桥上能够看到全部峡谷的地方，我就往桥中间走。 Knowing that the height of the Shorzhai Bridge to the river valley is about 330 meters, and that to get a good picture it would be necessary to stand on the bridge to be able to see all of the canyon, I headed for the middle of the bridge.

我走了三四十米，就泄气了，这个峡谷很难看到底，不说完全走到桥中间，最少也要走三四百米。 I walked 30 or 40 meters and got discouraged, this canyon is hard to see to the end, not to mention going completely to the middle of the bridge, at least 300 or 400 meters.

本来这段高速公路的车不多，但其他的车主看到我们把车停下来了在看风光，他们以为这里允许停车，结果不到五分钟，就有三四十辆车停下来。 There weren't many cars on this stretch of highway, but when other car owners saw that we had pulled over to look at the scenery, they assumed that parking was allowed here, and as a result, in less than five minutes, 30 to 40 cars had stopped.

大家都挤上桥来看矮寨大桥的雄伟和矮寨大峡谷的风光，于是我就放弃了继续拍照的机会。 Everyone crowded onto the bridge to see the majesty of the Shuanzhai Bridge and the scenery of the Shuanzhai Grand Canyon, so I passed up the opportunity to continue taking photos.

我们上车，车走了一段，回头一望，我发现矮寨有座山坡上有一片茶园。 We got in the car, which went on for a while, and when I looked back, I realized that there was a tea plantation on one of the slopes of Shorzhai.

我指给大家看，大家也很惊讶。 I pointed it out to everyone and they were surprised.

我从看过的文献和记忆里搜索，判断这大概是黄金茶。 I searched through the literature I had read and my memory and decided that this was probably golden tea.

他们用智能手机一查，果然是黄金茶。 They checked with their smartphones and sure enough, it was golden tea.

矮寨镇在搞打造黄金茶谷的工程，在坪年村、中黄村、岩科村、洽比村、小河片村等地方栽了近千亩黄金茶，我们看到的这片茶园就是其中之一。 Shorzhai Town in the project to create a golden tea valley, in the village of Ping Nian, in the village of Huang, rock village, Qiaobi village, small river village and other places planted nearly 1,000 acres of golden tea, we see this tea garden is one of them.

过了矮寨大桥，没走多远就进入了花垣县，也是我们去重庆要经过的湖南最后一个县。 After crossing the Shorzhai Bridge, we didn't have far to go before entering Huayuan County, the last county in Hunan that we would pass through on our way to Chongqing.

花垣县有个镇叫边城镇，建于清代嘉庆八年，那是以沈从文的中篇小说《边城》命名的，曾经叫茶峒镇，于2005年改名。 There is a town in Huayuan County called Biancheng Town, built in the eighth year of Jiaqing in the Qing Dynasty, that was named after Shen Congwen's middle grade novel Biancheng, and was once called Chadong Town, which was renamed in 2005.

茶峒是苗语，茶是“汉人”的意思，峒是“山中盆地”的意思。 Chadong is a Hmong language, tea means "Han Chinese", and dong means "basin in the mountains".

它与贵州松桃县迓驾镇和重庆秀山县洪安镇隔河相望，自古有“一脚踏三省”的美誉，是湖南的西北大门和湘西四大闻名古镇之一。 It and Songtao County, Guizhou Yazhou town and Chongqing Xiushan County, Hong'an town across the river, since ancient times, "a foot on the three provinces" reputation, is the northwest gate of Hunan and western Hunan one of the four famous ancient towns.

边城镇有两个与沈从文有关的景点，一是边城翠翠岛，二是边城百家书法园。 There are two attractions related to Shen Congwen in Biancheng Town, one is Biancheng Cuicui Island and the other is Biancheng Hundred Calligraphy Garden.

翠翠岛请黄永玉设计了《边城》主人公翠翠的雕塑；书法园请一百位书法家书写了沈从文六万字的中篇小说《边城》全文，刻在岩石上。 Cuicui Island invited Huang Yongyu to design a sculpture of Cuicui, the main character of Border City; Calligraphy Garden invited one hundred calligraphers to write the full text of Shen Congwen's 60,000-word middle grade novel Border City, which was carved on the rock.

我们来到边城镇，这里是湖南与重庆的交界处，走过这里就进入重庆的秀山县。 We arrived at the town of Biancheng, which is the border between Hunan and Chongqing, and after walking through it we entered Xiushan County in Chongqing.

来到边城景区门口，我们停下车，走下车来稍微休息一会，伸伸懒腰，舒展一下腿脚，也放松自己。 Come to the entrance of the Border City Scenic Area, we stop the car, step out of the car to take a short break, stretching, stretching legs and feet, but also to relax themselves.

我们到广场上看了看，有一些商贩在摆摊，摊位上有茶叶，是普通塑料袋的包装，多为高山云雾茶和毛尖，有“边城特产”几个字。 We went to the square to look around, there are some vendors set up stalls, stalls have tea, is the ordinary plastic bag packaging, mostly high mountain Yunwu tea and Mao Jian, with "Border City Specialties" a few words.

秀山是产茶的大县，有两万多亩茶园，集中分布在武陵山区，主要在钟灵镇、峨溶镇。 Xiushan is a large tea-producing county, with more than 20,000 acres of tea plantations, concentrated in the Wuling Mountain area, mainly in Zhongling Town and E sol town.

茶叶鲜嫩，为绿茶中的精品，茶汤晶莹，清香持久，味醇鲜爽。 The tea leaves are fresh and tender, a fine product among green teas, with crystal tea broth, long-lasting fragrance, and mellow and fresh flavor.

最有名的是灵峰雀舌茶，还有猛洞茶、平邑茶、江山茶等。 The most famous is Lingfeng Bird's Tongue tea, as well as Mangdong tea, Pingyi tea, and Jiangshan tea.

灵锋雀杂在清末民初被当时列为“贡茶”，并有“斗米换斤茶”“此茶治百病”之说。 Lingfeng sparrow mixed in the late Qing Dynasty and early Republic of China was then listed as "tribute tea", and there is a "bucket of rice for catty tea" "this tea cure all diseases," said.

我们经过酉阳、黔江、彭水、武隆，本来想去羊角镇去吃豆干、找茶叶的，但是没有找到高速路出口，直到进入重庆南川区，在金佛山旅游区才下高速。 We passed through Youyang, Qianjiang, Pengshui, and Wulong, and we wanted to go to Yangjiao Town to go eat dried beans and look for tea, but we didn't find the highway exit until we entered Nanchuan District of Chongqing and got off the highway at Jinfo Mountain Tourist Area.

在那里，我们吃了重庆烤鱼、重庆豆花。 There, we ate Chongqing Grilled Fish and Chongqing Douhua.

此行可谓满载而归。 The trip was a full one.

徜徉在成都的大街小巷，有种叫黄油茶的茶点吸引了我，每当走过那些早餐店，我都想进去喝一碗，以解我的馋意。 Wandering through the streets of Chengdu, there is a tea spot called butter tea that attracts me, and whenever I walk past those breakfast stores, I want to go in and have a bowl to satisfy my craving.

有时，漫步街头、流连夜市，也会听到叫卖黄油茶的吆喝声。 Sometimes, when you stroll through the streets and hang out at the night market, you will hear the yells of butter tea being sold.

叫卖的黄油茶，成都人取了个别名，叫它担担油茶。 The Chengdu people have given an alternative name to the butter tea they sell, calling it Tantan Oil Tea.

近年来，叫卖者越来越少，因为担担油茶也渐渐进入了早餐店。 In recent years, there have been fewer and fewer callers, as tandan oil tea has also gradually made its way into breakfast restaurants.

油茶是一种风味小吃，很多地方都有，名声较大的有西藏酥油茶、侗族打油茶、武陟油茶等，多采用青稞或面粉制作。 Oil tea is a kind of flavorful snack, many places have, the more famous Tibetan butter tea, Dong playing oil tea, Wuzhi oil tea, etc., mostly using barley or flour production.

在湖南高椅一带，油茶为水煮豇豆汤加米豆腐、米泡块做成。 In the high chair area of Hunan province, the oil tea is made of boiled cowpea soup with rice tofu and rice foam cubes.

油茶是侗族、瑶族、汉族等民族的普通饮料，茶叶用油炒后，加水熬煮，水沸滤出茶叶，即成油茶，食用时配以调料和副食。 Oil tea is a common drink of the Dong, Yao, Han and other ethnic groups, tea leaves fried in oil, add water to simmer, the water boils and filters out the tea leaves, that is, oil tea, eaten with seasonings and side dishes.

回族将荞麦面和糯米粉加牛油或羊油混合炒面，食用时用开水搅烂成糊状。 Hui people will buckwheat noodles and glutinous rice flour mixed with butter or mutton oil fried noodles, eaten with boiling water stirred into a paste.

北京油茶是将面粉炒至发黄，麻仁炒至焦黄，加桂花和牛骨髓油，拌搓均匀，将茶放在碗内，加上白糖，开水冲成糊状。 Beijing Oil Tea is made by frying flour until it turns yellow, frying sesame seeds until they are burnt, adding cinnamon and beef bone marrow oil, mixing and rubbing them together, placing the tea in a bowl, adding sugar, and brewing it into a paste with boiling water.

武陟油茶是久负盛名的风味小吃，有260多年的历史，为咖啡色，乳状稀汁，味道浓郁，咸甜适口，营养丰富。 Wuzhi oil tea is a prestigious snack with a history of more than 260 years, coffee-colored, milky thin juice, rich flavor, salty and sweet, and rich in nutrients.

这些油茶，味道甜美，深受各地百姓喜爱。 These oil teas, with their sweet flavor, are loved by people everywhere.

四川东部与湘、鄂、黔接壤的山区，男女老幼都喜欢喝油茶，油茶是他们日常生活中不可缺少的食物。 In the mountainous areas of eastern Sichuan bordering Hunan, Hubei and Guizhou, men, women and children like to drink oil tea, which is an indispensable food in their daily life.

四川黄油茶采用糯米或大米为主要原料，辅以酥黄豆、大头菜、花椒油、红油等作料，更接近四川人的口味。 Szechuan butter tea uses glutinous rice or rice as the main ingredient, supplemented with crispy soybeans, big head cabbage, pepper oil, red oil and other ingredients, closer to the taste of Sichuan people.

四川黄油茶没有油，也不是茶，是白米磨成细粉加水搅煮成稀糊的汤汁，成品为茶色而已。 Sichuan butter tea no oil, not tea, is white rice ground into a fine powder with water stirred into a thin paste of the soup, the finished product for the tea color only.

20世纪六七十年代，四川人把它作为早餐，现为成都著名小吃。 In the 1960s and 1970s, Sichuanese people used it as breakfast, and it is now a famous snack in Chengdu.

四川彭山县城北街，有位清末出生的王清和，民国时期，根据黄油茶的传统做法和吃法，反复改进，做成彭山县黄油茶第一品牌，赢得广大群众的赞誉，成了有名的“王油茶”。 Sichuan pengshan county city north street, there is a late qing dynasty born wang qinghe, the republican period, according to the traditional practice of butter tea and eating method, repeated improvements, made pengshan county butter tea first brand, won the praise of the masses, became famous "king oil tea".

他做油茶，主要是做馓子。 He makes oil tea, mainly deep-fried noodle cakes.

王油茶做馓子，先把上等面粉加水拌匀，用擀面棍把面擀薄擀匀，切成条状，逐条搓成细长圆形，表面涂上菜油，一圈圈地放入大陶缸中，互不黏连，等待发酵。 To make deep-fried noodle cake, Wang Yucha first mixes top quality flour with water, rolls out the flour thinly with a rolling pin, cuts it into strips, rolls them one by one into a thin round shape, coats the surface with vegetable oil, and then puts them into a big pottery jar without sticking to each other to wait for fermentation.

发酵完成后，一根根取出，像手工擀面一样，用左右手将面条来回套在手指上拉细，直到麻线大小，放入油锅中炸熟，保存在大麻坛内待用。 When the fermentation is complete, take out one by one, and like rolling out noodles by hand, use your right and left hands to pull the noodles back and forth over your fingers to thin them out until they are the size of twine, fry them in a frying pan, and keep them in a marijuana altar for later use.

馓子冷后变脆，久存不变软，成了油茶的主料，连无牙的老人也能咬碎。 Deep-fried noodle cake becomes crispy when it is cold and does not become soft when it is stored for a long time, so it becomes the main ingredient of oil tea and even toothless old people can bite it.

王油茶把油茶米糊调好，抓把馓子放入碗中，淋上米糊，放上葱花、花椒、食盐。 Mix the oil tea and rice paste, put the deep-fried noodle cake into the bowl, pour the rice paste on top, put chopped green onion, peppercorns and salt on top.

吃时用调羹和匀，吃起来又香又脆又烫，味极鲜美，老少咸宜，十分可口。 Eat with a spoon and even, eat and fragrant and crispy and hot, taste very fresh, young and old savory, very tasty.

四川还有两处黄油茶出名的地方，一是阆中，那里的人早上起来，都习惯到小店里去吃碗黄油茶；二是巴中，魏油茶与砂糖油干、杨鸭子、梆梆甜马蹄糕并称巴城四大名小吃。 Sichuan there are two butter tea famous places, one is Langzhong, where people get up in the morning, are accustomed to small stores to eat a bowl of butter tea; two is Bazhong, Wei oil tea and sugar oil dry, Yang duck, bang bang sweet horseshoe cake and known as the four major snacks in Bazhong.

四川黄油茶由籼米、糯米、馓子、酥黄豆、大头菜碎末、芝麻粉、红油辣椒、花椒油、葱花、精盐、味精、芝麻油等做成。 Sichuan butter tea is made of indica rice, glutinous rice, deep-fried noodle cake, crispy soybean, crushed cabbage, sesame powder, red oil chili pepper, pepper oil, green onion, refined salt, monosodium glutamate, sesame oil and so on.

先将籼米、糯米炒熟，碾碎磨成粉。 First, the indica and glutinous rice are fried, crushed and ground into powder.

洗净锅置于火上，加清水烧开，将米浆加入，不停地搅动，待成稀糊状。 Wash the pot on the fire, add water to boil, add the rice paste, stirring constantly, to become a thin paste.

先用旺火烧开，再改用小火熬熟。 Bring to a boil over high heat, then reduce heat to a simmer.

待米糊煮熟，有些粘勺子，加入少许糖汁水，汤色深黄。 When the rice paste is cooked and somewhat sticking to the spoon, add a little sugar juice water and make the soup a deep yellow color.

米糊煮到黏稠时便可起锅入碗，加入牛羊油或牛骨髓油，另备葱花、榨菜粒、油炸黄豆或花生以及馓子。 When the rice paste is thickened, put it into a bowl, add butter or bone marrow oil, chopped green onion, diced mustard greens, fried soybeans or peanuts, and deep-fried noodle cakes.

熬黄油茶，要文火慢煮，煮的时间越长，味道越香醇越黏稠，吃起来越有回味感。 Boil butter tea, should be cooked slowly over a gentle fire, the longer the cooking time, the more flavorful and viscous, the more aftertaste to eat.

若是火候把握不好，黄油茶就会熬焦、熬糊或者味道不佳，醇香较少。 If the fire is not properly controlled, the butter tea will be burnt, simmered or have a poor flavor and less mellow aroma.

油炸的黄豆、花生，稍微压碎，更容易入味。 Fried soybeans and peanuts, slightly crushed, are easier to flavor.

新炸出来的馓子，吃起来口感最好。 Freshly fried deep-fried noodle cakes have the best flavor.

将各色配料堆于黄油茶上，馓子拆成条状以便入口。 The toppings are piled on top of the butter tea, and the deep-fried noodle cake is split into strips for easy entry.

再根据个人口味加香油、花椒油和辣椒油，味道就各不相同。 Then add sesame oil, pepper oil and chili oil according to personal taste, and the flavor will vary.

所以，成都人把黄油茶分咸香和麻辣两种口味，满足不同人的需求。 Therefore, Chengdu people divide butter tea into two flavors, salty and spicy, to satisfy different people's needs.

我在成都吃黄油茶，主要吃咸香味的，不敢尝试麻辣味的。 I ate butter tea in Chengdu and mainly ate the savory flavors, not daring to try the spicy ones.

四川除了黄油茶和馓子豆花，馓子很少单独用到其他小吃中食用。 In Sichuan, deep-fried noodle cakes are seldom eaten alone in other snacks, except for butter tea and deep-fried noodle cake.

出售油茶的早餐店，都会自己制作馓子。 Breakfast stores that sell oil tea make their own deep-fried noodles.

馓子的好坏，直接影响黄油茶的品质。 The quality of deep-fried noodle cake directly affects the quality of butter tea.

黄油茶外观不好看，精致的馓子却能吸引不少顾客，让他们着迷。 Butter tea is not pretty in appearance, but the delicate deep-fried noodle cake can attract many customers and fascinate them.

四川人嗜辣，在咸鲜的油茶中放入辣椒和花椒，吃得津津有味、乐此不疲。 Sichuanese people are addicted to spiciness, putting chili peppers and peppercorns into the savory oil tea and eating it with great relish and joy.

黄油茶端上桌，掐碎的馓子堆成金碧辉煌的“冒儿头”。 Butter tea is served on the table, and the deep-fried noodle cakes are piled up to form a brilliant "Baoerduo".

我用调羹搅拌馓子，各种辅料完全融入黄油茶中，馓子也裹上米糊，凹凸有致、多味吐芳、脆柔相融、诱人食欲。 When I stirred the deep-fried noodle cakes with a spoon, the various ingredients were fully integrated into the butter tea and the noodle cakes were coated with the rice paste, which made the noodle cakes look like a beautifully shaped, multi-flavored, crunchy and soft cake, which was very appetizing.

黄油茶口味咸鲜，微带麻辣，酥香爽口。 Butter tea is savory, slightly spicy and crispy.

我用勺子拨动黄油茶，黄豆和花生酥香扑鼻，入人心脾。 I flicked the butter tea with a spoon and the soybean and peanut crunchy aroma hit my nose and heart.

细细品味黄油茶中的葱花和榨菜粒，增香不少，使人胃口大开。 Savoring the chopped green onion and diced squash in the butter tea adds a lot of flavor and whets the appetite.

黄油茶中的米糊柔软，馓子段香脆疏松。 The rice paste in the butter tea is soft and the deep-fried noodle cake segments are crispy and loose.

慢慢品味黄油茶，热烫细腻，回味不已。 Take your time to savor the butter tea, hot and delicate, with a lingering aftertaste.

吃黄油茶，可以用勺子将配料与黄油茶混合均匀，也可以吃一口油茶，再补一口配料。 To eat butter tea, you can use a spoon to mix the toppings with the butter tea, or you can take a bite of butter tea and make up a bite of the toppings.

而我个人习惯，是搅拌好了再吃，这样米糊和馓子味道融合，脆软咸甜一起来。 My personal habit is to stir it well before eating it, so that the flavors of the rice paste and deep-fried noodle cake will blend together, and the crunchy, soft, salty and sweet will come together.

黄油茶集合了米香、豆香、葱香、脆香和榨菜的咸香，秋冬季节可以温暖肠胃，给身体升温；春夏季节可以感受香醇，给味觉弥补回味。 Butter tea collects the aroma of rice, bean, green onion, crunchy and the salty aroma of squash, which can warm the stomach and give the body a warming in autumn and winter; and feel the aroma and make up for the aftertaste to the tastebuds in spring and summer.

我对于黄油茶最好的记忆，是细腻到没有任何杂质，也没有牛羊油或骨髓的膻气，真是一种享受。 My best memory of butter tea is that it is so delicate that there are no impurities, and there is no stench from the butter or bone marrow, it is a real treat.

到了成都，不吃火锅不泡茶馆，等于白来一趟。 When you arrive in Chengdu, not eating hot pot and not soaking in a teahouse is tantamount to a wasted trip.

对于那些追求生活品质或者喜欢旅游和探秘的人来说，那是一定要去体验一次的。 For those who are looking for quality of life or love to travel and explore, that's a must experience.

作为四川人的女婿，我每次去四川都要去吃火锅，泡泡茶馆。 As the son-in-law of a Sichuanese, I have to go to Sichuan every time I go there to eat hot pots and soak in teahouses.

这次与王洪坤他们到成都，本来我预计晚上大家与朱晓剑一起吃顿饭，让朱晓剑给我们介绍一下四川的火锅、菜肴和茶馆，吃了饭再去茶馆坐坐。 This time with Wang Hongkun they went to Chengdu, originally I expected everyone to have a meal with Zhu Xiaojian in the evening, so that Zhu Xiaojian introduced us to Sichuan hot pots, dishes and teahouses, and then go to the teahouse to sit down after dinner.

可是大家下午四五点才在多营镇曹家楼附近吃了雅鱼，喝了雅茶，就不愿意这么早去吃饭。 However, we all just ate ya fish and drank ya tea near Caojialou in Duoying Town at 4 or 5 p.m., so we were reluctant to go to dinner so early.

我们回到酒店，大家回房间去休息。 We went back to the hotel and everyone went to their rooms to rest.

我只好一个人陪朱晓剑去吃饭。 I had to accompany Zhu Xiaojian to dinner alone.

我们吃了饭又由王洪坤安排品尝他的寒茶，折腾到快九点。 We ate and then arranged by Wang Hongkun to taste his chilly tea, tossing and turning until almost nine o'clock.

等朱晓剑走后，我实在受不了了，就洗漱了一下上床。 When Zhu Xiaojian left, I couldn't take it anymore, so I washed up and got into bed.

我闭上眼睛还没有睡半小时，就有人来敲门。 I hadn't even closed my eyes for half an hour before there was a knock on the door.

王洪坤打开门，大家都来了。 Wang Hongkun opened the door and everyone came.

他们一进门，就叫嚷着饿了，要去吃饭。 As soon as they entered, they screamed that they were hungry and wanted to go eat.

我们几个人里，我对成都还稍微熟悉点。 Of the few of us, I'm slightly more familiar with Chengdu.

加上我是靠嘴巴吃饭的人，从昨天中午在沅陵吃的晒兰肉，昨天晚上在重庆南川吃的豆花烤鱼，到今天下午在雅安吃的雅鱼，他们完全相信我了，希望由我带他们去吃地道的成都美食。 Plus I'm a mouth breather, and from the sun orchid pork I ate in Yuanling yesterday at noon, the roasted fish with bean flower in Nanchuan, Chongqing last night, and the Ya'an fish in Ya'an this afternoon, they totally trust me, and hope I'll take them to authentic Chengdu food.

我不得不赶紧起床，穿戴好出门去找吃的。 I had to get up in a hurry, get dressed and go out to find food.

我在脑海里搜索了一下，川菜在成都分为三大流派，一是火锅，二是冷啖杯，三是菜肴。 I searched my mind and found that Sichuan cuisine is divided into three main genres in Chengdu: hot pot, cold bite cups, and dishes.

这三个都有它各自的特色和味道。 All three have its own character and flavor.

在这个时间点上，也许去吃火锅还有希望，菜肴馆应该差不多都关门了，吃冷啖杯又太早。 At this point in time, maybe there's still hope for a hotpot, the cuisine halls should be almost all closed, and it's too early for a cold bite glass.

我还想做的一件事是想带他们去泡泡茶馆，但是都快十点了，我只想早点休息。 One other thing I wanted to do was to take them to the Bubble Tea House, but it was almost 10:00 and I just wanted to get an early night.

走到大街上，很多饭馆都没有顾客了，店主也准备打烊，不接待顾客。 Walking down the street, many of the restaurants were devoid of customers, and the shopkeepers were ready to close for the night and not receive customers.

还有几家稍大点的餐馆在接待客人，但是客人也不多。 There were also a couple of slightly larger restaurants that were receiving customers, but not many of them.

在我心里，我倒是愿意去吃苍蝇馆子，那样的菜肴有味道、有特色，也符合成都人的个性和对美食的追求。 In my mind, I would rather go to a fly tavern, where the dishes are flavorful and distinctive, and in line with Chengdu's personality and pursuit of good food.

但是他们中有些人对成都不是很了解，如果带他们去吃苍蝇馆子，他们可能以为我故意把他们往老百姓的圈子里带，故意拉低他们的档次和身份，便作罢。 However, some of them did not know Chengdu very well, and if I took them to a fly-fishing restaurant, they might think that I had deliberately brought them into the circle of the common people, and had deliberately lowered their grade and status, so they stopped.

我们沿着酒店门前的这条街往右走了四五百米，找了四五家饭店，都是成都的特色菜肴，我也针对饭店推荐的每道菜肴做了简单的介绍。 We walked along this street in front of the hotel to the right for four or five hundred meters, looking for four or five restaurants, all specializing in Chengdu's cuisine, and I gave a brief description of each of the dishes recommended by the restaurants.

我们来到火锅店，店里还很热闹，人声鼎沸，吃的人却不多了，我们也不需排队了。 We arrived at the hot pot restaurant, which was still very busy and crowded, but not so many people were eating, and we didn't need to wait in line.

我们在大厅选择了一个大桌子坐下，服务员马上把茶水端上来。 We chose a large table in the lobby and sat down, and the waiter immediately brought up the tea.

成都人吃火锅，最喜欢的食物是鹅肠、牛毛肚、鸭舌、鸡胗子、血旺等。 When Chengdu people eat hot pot, their favorite foods are goose intestines, beef tripe, duck tongue, chicken gizzard seeds and blood wang.

成都“土著”李劼人、著名报人车辐等对火锅和牛毛肚、鹅肠等美食都有文字描写，说出了成都人的心声、棒棒们的苦楚，及这些美食形成和被关注的原因。 Chengdu's "natives" Li Jieren and the famous newspaper man Che Spoke have written about hot pots, beef tripe, goose intestines, and other delicacies, speaking the minds of Chengdu's people, the suffering of the stickmen, and the reasons for the formation of these cuisines and the attention they have received.

服务员在我点菜单的时候，给我们把茶水倒上了。 The waiter poured our tea while I ordered the menu.

王洪坤怕火锅店的茶叶不好，要服务员给我们来壶开水，想泡自己携带的寒茶喝。 Wang Hongkun afraid of hot pot store tea is not good, want the waiter to give us a pot of boiling water, want to brew their own carry cold tea to drink.

大家吃了一根鹅肠和一片牛毛肚之后，嘴巴烫得很，又很辣又很麻。 Everyone's mouths were hot, spicy and numb after eating a piece of goose intestines and a slice of beef tripe.

我要他们再喝一口杯子里的茶，问他们还知不知道茶的味道和感觉，他们觉得大麦茶的香没有开始那么浓郁了，嘴巴麻得辨别不出好坏。 I asked them to take another sip from the cup and asked them if they still knew the flavor and feel of the tea. They felt that the aroma of the barley tea was not as strong as it was at the beginning, and their mouths were so numb that they couldn't tell whether it was good or bad.

我就告诉他们，四川的火锅是重口味，不仅很辣很麻很咸，老锅底汤还很香很醇，在这种高香的物质面前，茶的清雅无法表现出来。 I then told them that Sichuan hot pot is heavy, not only is it very spicy, very numb and salty, but the old pot base soup is also very fragrant and mellow, and that in the presence of this highly aromatic substance, the purity and elegance of the tea could not be expressed.

最好的办法是喝白开水，洗漱和清理口腔的味道。 The best thing you can do is to drink plain water to wash and clean the taste of your mouth.

但是嘴里有鱼腥味和膻味，开水无法清理感觉，只有大麦茶可以消除这些味道。 But there is a fishy and stinky taste in your mouth that boiling water can't clear up the sensation, and only barley tea can eliminate these flavors.

如果我们喝高级红茶或者绿茶，那种淡雅、清纯就没有了，反而无法清除口腔里的怪味，也无法品味茶的味道，那好茶就浪费了。 If we drink high-grade black tea or green tea, that kind of lightness and innocence is gone, instead of being able to clear the strange taste in the mouth and savor the flavor of the tea, then the good tea will be wasted.

大家见我这样说，也就信服了，不再想要喝自己带的好茶了。 When people saw me say that, they were convinced and stopped wanting the good tea they had brought with them.

自2008年起，岳父岳母从甘肃敦煌搬回四川安度晚年，他们除了到我在长沙的家小住之外，就一直住在广汉市。 Since 2008, my father-in-law and mother-in-law moved back to Sichuan from Dunhuang in Gansu to spend their twilight years, and they have been living in Guanghan City, except for a small visit to my home in Changsha.

广汉市虽没有划归成都市管辖，但走高速去成都也就40分钟的车程。 Although Guanghan is not under the jurisdiction of Chengdu, it is only a 40-minute drive to Chengdu by highway.

每年的端午、中秋、春节三个大节日，在成都市四川师范大学任职的幺舅与舅妈在节日之前都会开车去广汉看望我的岳父岳母，他们多是给岳父岳母带些酒、茶及其他季节性礼品。 Every year the Dragon Boat Festival, Mid-Autumn Festival, Spring Festival three big holidays, in Chengdu City, Sichuan Normal University, the youngest uncle and aunt before the festival will drive to Guanghan to visit my in-laws, they are mostly to bring some wine, tea and other seasonal gifts.

2012年春节，我的第一个孩子在四川出生已有两个多月了。 It has been more than two months since my first child was born in Sichuan in the Spring of 2012.

妻子一直在四川照顾小孩，我从长沙赶到广汉去陪他们过春节。 My wife has been taking care of the children in Sichuan, and I traveled from Changsha to Guanghan to spend the Spring Festival with them.

妻子知道我有喝茶的习惯，每天都要喝一两杯好茶。 My wife knows that I have a habit of drinking tea, and I drink one or two cups of good tea every day.

岳父因为身体原因不再喝茶和煮茶，他们两位老人也没有再买茶叶放在家里招待客人。 My father-in-law stopped drinking and making tea for health reasons, and the two of them stopped buying tea to keep at home for guests.

我待了两三天，在写作之余，有种坐立不安的烦躁，总是走来走去。 I stayed for two or three days, and had a fidgety irritation that kept me walking around while I was writing.

妻子看到我的这种神态，知道我的茶瘾又犯了，就去找岳母要茶叶。 When my wife saw this demeanor of mine, she knew that my tea addiction had returned and went to my mother-in-law for tea.

我听到她们母女俩在家里噼噼啪啪地翻箱倒柜，知道她们在找东西。 I heard them crackling through the house, mother and daughter, and knew they were looking for something.

我作为女婿，也不方便帮忙去找。 As my son-in-law, I'm not in a position to help find it.

过了一阵子，家里安静下来。 After a while, the house was quiet.

我正准备在床上躺一会儿，妻子推门进来，手里端着一个茶杯。 I was about to lie down on the bed for a while when my wife pushed her way in, a teacup in her hand.

随之而来的是一股浓浓的茶香，有那种烘烤过的粮食香和茶叶的混合味。 With it came a strong aroma of tea, with that mixture of baked grain flavor and tea.

我端起茶杯，好好闻了闻它的味道，又看了看杯子里的茶渣，茶汤中不是茶叶，而是颗粒状的谷物，却也不是真正的谷物，而是仿做的谷物。 I picked up my teacup and took a good whiff of it, and then looked at the dregs in the cup; instead of tea, the tea broth was grainy grains, yet not real grains either, but imitation made grains.

我轻轻喝了一口，有荞麦的清香。 I took a sip gently, and it had the refreshing flavor of buckwheat.

我曾在农村生活近20年，家里也种过苦荞，吃过苦荞粑，熟悉它的味道。 I had lived in the countryside for nearly 20 years, the family also planted buckwheat, eat buckwheat poop, familiar with its flavor.

我想了想，断定这就是现在在四川很流行的保健茶中的苦荞茶。 I thought about it and concluded that this is now very popular in Sichuan health tea in the buckwheat tea.

妻子见我说出了茶的名字，她很兴奋，问我道：你在哪里喝过吗？ My wife was excited to see me name the tea and she asked me, Have you had it anywhere?

你有没有觉得这苦荞茶与我们在长沙喝的那种茶有些相似呢？ Do you feel that this buckwheat tea is somewhat similar to the kind of tea we drink in Changsha?

你是从茶汤的颜色和香味上来判断的吧。 You're judging from the color and aroma of the tea broth, right?

长沙的那些餐馆里是大麦茶或者是大叶茶，它们与苦荞茶有根本的区别，在于苦荞茶的烘烤香味非常特别，比较高远。 Those restaurants in Changsha are barley tea or big leaf tea, they are fundamentally different from buckwheat tea, in that buckwheat tea has a very special roasted flavor that is more lofty.

苦荞茶的外观为黄绿色，颗粒大小均匀，没有色差，颜色发白或者颜色深浅不一的为次品。 Buckwheat tea appearance of yellow-green, uniform particle size, no color difference, the color of white or different shades of color is inferior.

在开水里冲泡容易释放它的有效成分和气味。 Brewing in boiling water tends to release its active ingredients and odor.

发挥苦荞本色的清新的纯荞麦的香味，没有其他香味或异味、煳味。 Buckwheat to play the original color of the fresh, pure buckwheat flavor, no other flavor or odor, burnt taste.

我还知道，苦荞茶还有黄苦荞和黑苦荞之分，四川的苦荞茶是由黑苦荞做成，黑苦荞即珍珠黑苦荞，有‘黑珍珠’之称，外壳呈深黑色。 I also know that buckwheat tea and yellow buckwheat and black buckwheat points, buckwheat tea in Sichuan is made of black buckwheat, black buckwheat that is the pearl of black buckwheat, there is a 'black pearl', the shell of the dark black color.

妻子知道我喜欢研究这些东西，她把苦荞茶的包装盒拿过来，让我看看。 My wife knows that I like to study these things, she brought the box of buckwheat tea, let me see.

我看完之后，才知道这些苦荞茶是产在四川的高寒地区，主要是阿坝、凉山等高寒藏区。 After I read it, I realized that these buckwheat teas are produced in the alpine areas of Sichuan, mainly in the alpine Tibetan areas such as Aba and Liangshan.

我也曾去过四川的一些藏区，它的气候与成都平原完全不一样，要寒冷些。 I have also been to some Tibetan areas in Sichuan, and its climate is completely different from that of the Chengdu Plain, which is colder.

适合种植的作物也要少得多，唯独苦荞在这里生长得很好，成为他们的主要粮食。 There are also far fewer crops suitable for cultivation, except buckwheat, which grows well here and has become their main grain.

岳母见我喜欢喝苦荞茶，她把那盒打开的苦荞茶拿到我房间。 Mother-in-law saw that I like to drink buckwheat tea, she took the open box of buckwheat tea to my room.

我就收下了这盒苦荞茶。 I then took the box of buckwheat tea.

此后的日子，我就一天喝一杯苦荞茶。 In the days since, I've been drinking a cup of buckwheat tea a day.

在离开四川的时候，我也就把这盒苦荞茶喝完了。 I finished the box of buckwheat tea just as I was leaving Sichuan.

喝铁观音茶，需要闲暇的时光来品味。 Drinking Tieguanyin tea requires leisure time to savor.

独煮独酌自无味，人多闲杂亦无聊。 It is tasteless to cook and drink alone, and it is boring to have too many people around.

最好是邀三两好友，闲谈私事和理想，吮吸浓郁的铁观音茶香，那才别有一番滋味上心头。 It is best to invite three or two friends, gossiping about personal matters and ideals, sucking the rich aroma of Tieguanyin tea, that is a special flavor on the heart.

我喝铁观音，往往喜欢在午后进行。 When I drink Tieguanyin, I tend to like to do it in the late afternoon.

午睡之后，精神极度放松，闲坐茶室，品着铁观音的浓香，那是一种极致享受。 After a nap, the spirit is extremely relaxed, sitting idly in the tea room, savoring the strong fragrance of Tieguanyin, that is the ultimate enjoyment.

晚饭后与妻子散完步回家，温茶促膝，边煮茶边休息，回忆我俩相见时的爱恋与多年来的婚姻生活，调以茶味，各自乐在其中。 After dinner, I went home with my wife after a walk, warmed tea and rested on my knees while making tea, reminiscing about our love when we met and our years of married life, mixing tea flavors and enjoying each other's company.

我曾去过福建多地，在朋友的陪同下深入茶乡安溪县感德镇，了解当地的民俗和茶农的生活，亲自参与铁观音的制作，还得到老茶农的指导，并参与他们的铁观音品尝和鉴赏，对铁观音有了更深入的了解。 I have traveled to many places in Fujian, accompanied by my friends, I went deep into the tea hometown of Sense Town, Anxi County, to learn about the local folklore and the life of the tea farmers, to personally participate in the production of Iron Goddess of Mercy, and also to get the guidance of the old tea farmers, and to participate in their Iron Goddess of Mercy tasting and appreciation, so that I have a more in-depth understanding of the Iron Goddess of Mercy.

铁观音发明于1725—1735年间，属乌龙茶，是介于绿茶和红茶之间的半发酵茶，独具清香雅韵。 Tieguanyin was invented in 1725-1735, belongs to Oolong tea, is a semi-fermented tea between green tea and black tea, unique fragrance and elegant flavor.

1919年，铁观音自福建安溪引进木栅区试种，分红心和青心两种。 In 1919, Tieguanyin was introduced from Anxi, Fujian Province to the Muji district for trial planting, with two kinds of red heart and green heart.

铁观音的叶呈椭圆形，叶厚肉多。 Tieguanyin's leaves are oval in shape and thick and fleshy.

铁观音茶树天性娇弱，产量低。 Tieguanyin tea trees are delicate by nature and have low yields.

纯种铁观音植株为灌木型，树势披展，枝条斜生，叶片呈水平状，叶形椭圆，叶缘齿疏而钝，叶面呈波浪状隆起，略向背面反卷，叶肉肥厚，叶色浓绿光润，叶基部稍钝，叶尖端稍凹，向左稍歪，嫩芽呈紫红色，有“红芽歪尾桃”之称。 Purebred Tieguanyin plant for the shrub type, the tree momentum phi exhibition, branches oblique, leaf blade was horizontal, leaf shape oval, leaf margin teeth sparse and obtuse, the leaf surface is wavy bulging, slightly to the back of the reflux, leaf flesh is fat and thick, the color of the leaves is rich green and glossy, the leaf base is slightly obtuse, the tip of the leaf is slightly concave, a little skewed to the left, the shoots were purplish-red, with the "red buds, crooked peach," the name.

我走了数家茶园，才知道铁观音的鲜叶与湖南黑茶的原料中叶茶有些区别，铁观音的叶片厚实，质地硬扎。 I walked several tea gardens, only to realize that the fresh leaves of Iron Goddess of Mercy and the raw material of Hunan black tea in the leaf tea is somewhat different, Iron Goddess of Mercy leaves thick, hard and solid texture.

安溪铁观音分清香型、浓香型、韵香型、陈年型四类。 Anxi Tieguanyin is divided into four categories: clear flavor, strong flavor, rhythmic flavor, and aged type.

清香型为高档茶，产于高海拔、岩石基质的土壤，浓馥持久，花香鲜爽，醇正回甘，观音韵足，茶汤呈金黄绿色，清澈明亮，饮后使人口、舌、齿、龈均有刺激清锐的感受。 Qing Xiang type is a high-grade tea, produced in high altitude, rocky substrate soil, thick Fu long-lasting, floral fresh, mellow and sweet, Guanyin rhyme, the tea broth is golden green, clear and bright, after drinking the mouth, tongue, teeth, gums are stimulated by the feeling of sharp.

浓香型以传统工艺制作，温火慢烘，湿风快速冷却，色泽乌润，香气纯正，带甜花香、蜜香或粟香，汤色呈深金黄色或橙黄色，滋味醇厚甘滑，叶底带有余香，可多次冲泡。 Strong aroma type is made by traditional craftsmanship, warm fire and slow baking, wet wind and fast cooling, the color is oolong, the aroma is pure, with sweet flower, honey or corn aroma, the soup color is deep golden yellow or orange, the taste is mellow and sweet, the bottom of the leaf has the residual fragrance, and it can be brewed for many times.

茶性温和止渴，温胃健脾。 Tea is mild and thirst-quenching, warms the stomach and strengthens the spleen.

韵香型用高温烘焙，发酵充足，传统正味，浓韵润醇，香味高，回甘好，韵味足。 Rhyme aroma type with high temperature roasting, fermentation is sufficient, traditional positive flavor, strong rhyme and mellow, high flavor, good sweetness and rhyme.

陈年型有治感冒、降压降脂、防治糖尿病等效用。 The aged type has the effect of curing colds, lowering blood pressure and fat, and preventing diabetes.

铁观音的制作分正炒和拖补两步。 The preparation of Tieguanyin is divided into two steps: positive frying and dragging and supplementing.

正炒按传统制作工艺，采青后第二天中午炒青。 Positive fried according to the traditional production process, the next day after picking green at noon fried green.

干茶是砂绿色的，汤色黄绿、明亮、透白；汤味滑、活、厚，果香浓郁，观音韵明显，回味甘甜，口齿留香；叶底黄绿，有光泽，底片柔软。 Dry tea is sandy green, soup color yellow-green, bright, translucent white; soup flavor smooth, alive, thick, fruity aroma, Guanyin rhyme is obvious, sweet aftertaste, mouth and teeth; leaf bottom yellow-green, glossy, the bottom piece of soft.

拖补在空调下进行，于次日下午以后或第三天入锅炒青，干茶绿、汤色绿、叶底绿。 Drag patching is done under air-conditioning, after the next afternoon or on the third day into the pot of fried green, dry tea green, soup color green, the bottom of the leaf green.

铁观音实行开面采，鲜叶新鲜完整，进行凉青、晒青和摇青，直到自然花香释放，在香气浓郁时进行炒青、揉捻和包揉，使茶叶卷缩成颗粒后进行文火焙干。 Tieguanyin practiced open face picking, fresh leaves are fresh and intact, cool greening, sun greening and shaking until the natural floral aroma is released, stir-frying, kneading and wrapping when the aroma is strong, so that the tea leaves are rolled into particles and then roasted over a gentle fire.

制成毛茶后，再经筛分、风选、拣剔、匀堆、包装制成商品茶。 After the gross tea is made, it will be sifted, wind-selected, picked, evenly stacked and packaged into commercial tea.

我参与过茶叶的采摘，并且在茶农的指导下学习炒茶、揉捻等工作，发现这比我家乡的黑茶制作工艺复杂、烦琐得多。 I have participated in tea picking and learned to fry and knead tea under the guidance of tea growers, and found it to be a much more complicated and cumbersome process than the black tea making process in my hometown.

以后我喝铁观音，就更加体会到制茶人的辛劳。 When I drink Tieguanyin in the future, I will appreciate the hard work of tea makers even more.

茶农还告诉我，泡铁观音以石泉为佳，炉以炭火为妙，茶具以小为上。 Tea farmers also told me that the best way to brew Tieguanyin is with stone springs, the stove with charcoal fire is wonderful, and the tea utensils are small.

整个冲泡过程分有白鹤沐浴、乌龙入宫、悬壶高冲、春风拂面、关公巡城、韩信点兵、鉴尝汤色、品啜甘霖八道工序。 The whole brewing process is divided into eight procedures: White Crane Bathing, Wulong Entering the Palace, Hanging Pot High Brewing, Spring Breeze Brushing the Face, Guan Gong Patrolling the City, Han Xin Counting the Troops, Tasting the Soup Color, and Sipping the Sweet Rain.

忙完一天的工作之后，我们用盖碗陶瓷冲泡铁观音，边品茶边听茶农讲故事，虽然都是一些铁观音的传说以及茶农创业故事，我还是听得很入神。 After a day's work, we brewed Iron Goddess of Mercy in a ceramic covered bowl, sipping tea while listening to the tea farmers tell stories, although they are some of the legends of Iron Goddess of Mercy as well as the story of the tea farmers' entrepreneurial activities, I still listen to the story very fascinating.

在这段时间的学习中，我学会了从观形、听声、察色、闻香、品韵入手，辨别铁观音的优劣，更能识别感德铁观音香气浓郁、汤色清淡、带微酸、口感特殊的特色。 During this period of study, I learned to identify the advantages and disadvantages of Tieguanyin by looking at the shape, listening to the sound, checking the color, smelling the aroma and tasting the rhyme, and better identify the characteristics of Sense Tieguanyin's strong aroma, light soup color, with a slight acidity and a special taste.

回到长沙，我还是很怀念在感德品茶、制茶的日子，每天亲手抚过茶叶，带着一身茶香回家，那沁人心脾的香味，经我的手、口、胃，一直流转到我的梦里，久久不散。 Back in Changsha, I still miss the days of tea tasting and tea making in Sense, every day my hands stroked over the tea leaves, and I went home with the fragrance of tea, the refreshing fragrance, through my hands, mouth and stomach, has been flowing into my dreams, and it will not dissipate for a long time.

每次我与朋友聚会或到外地旅游，都会遇到一两种当地很有名的茶叶。 Every time I meet up with friends or travel abroad, I come across one or two locally famous teas.

我本来很少喝茶了，但见到新茶，又忍不住想品尝一杯，感受那不一样的茶香。 I rarely drink tea anymore, but when I see a new tea, I can't help but taste a cup and feel the different aroma.

有一次我去福建，本来是为了寻找现代福建文人的童年岁月和成长足迹，到他们的故居寻访他们过往生活的细枝末节。 Once I went to Fujian, I was supposed to look for the childhood years and growing up footprints of modern Fujian literati, and to visit their former residences to find out the minutiae of their past lives.

但在福建省平和县，我遇上了一种白茶，询问才知道是林语堂故乡的奇兰茶，因为长白芽，所以叫白芽奇兰茶。 However, in Pinghe County, Fujian Province, I came across a kind of white tea, and when I inquired about it, I realized that it was the Qilan tea from Lin Yutang's hometown, which is called White Bud Qilan Tea because of its long white buds.

在当地人的带领下，我去了平和县大芹山麓的崎岭、九峰一带，只见山峦起伏，林木茂密，云雾缭绕，山云相连，像缥缈的云海。 Under the guidance of the locals, I went to the area of Sakiling and Jufeng in the foothills of Daqin Mountain in Pinghe County, only to see the rolling hills, dense forests, cloudy and misty, the mountains and clouds are connected, like a misty sea of clouds.

其山谷幽深，溪流潺潺，有股人间净土的味道。 Its valleys are deep and its streams are babbling, and it has the flavor of a pure land on earth.

在山坡与山谷间，肥沃的土壤上，长着一丛一丛的白芽茶树，连绵成片，与云海交织，相映成趣。 Between the mountain slopes and valleys, on the fertile soil, clumps and clusters of white-bud tea trees grow in succession, intertwined with the sea of clouds.

白芽奇兰茶是乌龙茶的新良种，属中叶种。 White Bud Qilan tea is a new variety of oolong tea, belonging to the middle-leaf species.

白芽奇兰茶生长在海拔800米以上的山地，要经过严寒的考验和露水的滋润，才可发挥茶的优势。 White Bud Qilan tea grows in the mountains at an altitude of 800 meters above sea level, where it has to be tested by severe cold and moisturized by dew in order to bring out the tea's advantages.

春天茶树生长，枝头新梢白毫满冠，就像一顶雪白的毛茸茸的帽子扣在土地上。 Spring tea tree growth, branches of new white hair full crown, like a snow-white furry hat buckle on the land.

树势中等，树冠半开张，分枝稠密，发芽力强，产量较高，着生部位较低。 Medium strength, semi-open crown, densely branched, strong germination, high yield, low bearing site.

每年三月下旬，茶树开始抽芽萌发，四月底五月初，茶叶初长成，两片毛茸茸的对叶攀满枝头，采茶女围着茶蔸，采摘那带着露珠的白芽，这景这情，颇有诗情画意。 Every year in late March, the tea tree began to bud sprouting, the end of April and early May, the tea leaves early growth, two furry pair of leaves climbed all over the branches, tea picking women around the tea root and pick the white buds with dewdrops, the scene of this situation, quite a poetic feeling.

白芽奇兰茶育芽能力强，芽非常嫩，还特别持久，生脆易断。 White Bud Qilan tea is highly fertile, with very tender buds that are also exceptionally long-lasting, raw and brittle and easy to break.

奇兰茶芽尖有白毫，茶叶张开与竹叶奇兰相似，鲜叶在制作过程中有股奇特的兰花香味，因此取名“白芽奇兰”。 Qilan tea buds have white hairs, the tea leaves open similar to the bamboo leaf Qilan, the fresh leaves in the production process has a peculiar orchid flavor, so the name "white buds Qilan".

白芽奇兰茶的香气清高爽悦，兰香幽长，滋味醇爽，香溢飘荡，久久无法散去。 The aroma of White Bud Qilan tea is clear and refreshing, with a long orchid fragrance, mellow and refreshing flavor, and the fragrance overflows and wafts, unable to dissipate for a long time.

取十余枚茶叶可以冲一杯开水，汤色橙黄明亮，茶叶悬浮杯中，叶底软亮可见，甚是雅观可爱，与林语堂的“茶需静品”有异曲同工之妙，边观边品，可以达到喝白芽奇兰茶的最高境界。 Take more than ten tea leaves can be washed a cup of boiling water, soup color orange and yellow bright, tea leaves suspended in the cup, the bottom of the leaf is soft and bright visible, very elegant and lovely, and Lin Yutang's "tea needs to be quiet and taste" has a different and the same wonderful, the side of the view while tasting, you can achieve the highest state of drinking white bud qilan tea.